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Wing of Bat 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,226
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on May 18, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Open, with restrictions: private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

As mentioned in the rock description, Wing of Bat is right in the middle of the Welcome Wall. You can tell that the climbing goes up and to the right in a slight dihedral/crack to the first bolt, and from there continues straight up following a series of cracks. Route finding shouldn't be too difficult on this one.Fun climb with lots of large holds, lots of which you can either practice your crack technique, or use them as side-pulls. Some guides books have this as an 10a others as an 10b, after all 3 of us climbed it, we sorta looked at each other determined we agree with those who have it as a 10b. While I'm critiquing guide books, I'd also mention that we hardly say any bat shit or bats on the climb. So while some say the bat presence detracts from the quality of the climb, I say it was fun shit since we encountered no trace of bat infestation.Still, though, I'll remind you to keep an eye out for bats in some of the underclings you encounter.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The guide books that I've seen don't have the correct number of bolts, besides that, Wing of Bat couldn't have any more straight-forward protection.


Photos of Wing of Bat Slideshow Add Photo
I didn't hit bat shit. Lucky!
I didn't hit bat shit. Lucky!

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 28, 2014
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 20, 2008

That is all bat guano zeke. And you're stepping in it!
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Dec 21, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I concur, .10b. I remember one thought provoking move a few bolts up and a few committing 5.10 moves at the traverse up top. Overall fun route and a must do on the wall.
By ShaunG
From: El Paso
Dec 21, 2009

A little harder than it looks on the ground. Fun climb on solid rock. Didn't see any Bat guano.
By Tim Camuti
From: Placerville, CA
Jun 18, 2010

Very well bolted and anchored- all in a line with anchor directly above start. Anchors are a little high above ledge for 5'6".
By Jared-EMS
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 13, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

There was an amazing amount of bird & bat dropping everywhere. I'm looking forward to doing Welcome Mat this week & comparing the two.
By fivefun
Apr 21, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Lots of poo in the undercling. Fortunately I let my buddies go first so when it came time to lead it I didn't get too messy. Well bolted.
By Luke.V
Jun 5, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

More than bat guano you have some light rain (yes urine) from the friendly mammals in the cracks.

Overall fun route with a lot of underclings. Very well bolted and as far as lead climbing goes I'd say .10a.
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 6, 2013

Protection: 6 quickdraws and a rain jacket, ha!
By Chris Blanchard
Jul 11, 2013

I elected to climb this route traditionally .. It felt harder than .10a but maybe that had to do with some dicey potential ankle breaking sections while being shat on from above. Literally had the stuff dripping down my back while my belayer was trying to hide under me.
By coldatom
From: Cambridge, MA
Sep 22, 2013

A torrent of bat shit raining down at the final bolts.

Apparently others have had better experiences. Maybe the bat activity is seasonal (I was there in late July), but I can't believe they didn't call this climb Bat Shit Crazy.
By John Robinson
Administrator
From: Elk Grove, ca
Sep 28, 2014

One clip about half way up is a little spicy