Wing of Bat 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Brian Quiter on May 18, 2002 |
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You can clearly see the route.
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Description As mentioned in the rock description, Wing of Bat is right in the middle of the Welcome Wall. You can tell that the climbing goes up and to the right in a slight dihedral/crack to the first bolt, and from there continues straight up following a series of cracks. Route finding shouldn't be too difficult on this one.Fun climb with lots of large holds, lots of which you can either practice your crack technique, or use them as side-pulls. Some guides books have this as an 10a others as an 10b, after all 3 of us climbed it, we sorta looked at each other determined we agree with those who have it as a 10b. While I'm critiquing guide books, I'd also mention that we hardly say any bat shit or bats on the climb. So while some say the bat presence detracts from the quality of the climb, I say it was fun shit since we encountered no trace of bat infestation.Still, though, I'll remind you to keep an eye out for bats in some of the underclings you encounter.
Protection 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The guide books that I've seen don't have the correct number of bolts, besides that, Wing of Bat couldn't have any more straight-forward protection.
By caughtinside From: Oakland CA Feb 20, 2008
| That is all bat guano zeke. And you're stepping in it! |
By tallmark515 From: San Francisco Dec 21, 2009 rating: 5.10b
| I concur, .10b. I remember one thought provoking move a few bolts up and a few committing 5.10 moves at the traverse up top. Overall fun route and a must do on the wall. |
By ShaunG From: Novato/SF, CA Dec 21, 2009
| A little harder than it looks on the ground. Fun climb on solid rock. Didn't see any Bat guano. |
By Tim Camuti From: Placerville, CA Jun 18, 2010
| Very well bolted and anchored- all in a line with anchor directly above start. Anchors are a little high above ledge for 5'6". |
By SoCo From: Modesto, CA Jul 13, 2010 rating: 5.10a/b
| There was an amazing amount of bird & bat dropping everywhere. I'm looking forward to doing Welcome Mat this week & comparing the two. |
By fivefun Apr 21, 2011 rating: 5.10a
| Lots of poo in the undercling. Fortunately I let my buddies go first so when it came time to lead it I didn't get too messy. Well bolted. |
By Luke.V Jun 5, 2013 rating: 5.10a
| More than bat guano you have some light rain (yes urine) from the friendly mammals in the cracks. Overall fun route with a lot of underclings. Very well bolted and as far as lead climbing goes I'd say .10a. |
By Justin Johnsen Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Jun 6, 2013
| Protection: 6 quickdraws and a rain jacket, ha! |
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