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Wine and Roses T 

Wine and Roses 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dan Hare & ?
Page Views: 1,792
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on May 6, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Ivan Rezucha catches a rest after the crux roof.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start as for Ride My Seesaw and after the second bolt follow the short corner to the off-size finger crack through a small roof and up thin fingers to the anchor.

This is a really good route with good but somewhat strenuous gear placements. Dan rated the route hard 5.10 back in 1979 on the FA but after doing it for a second time thinks it is 5.11...I agree!


Location 

As for Ride My Seesaw.

Protection 

Gear to a green Camalot.


Photos of Wine and Roses Slideshow Add Photo
This thing looks inviting.
BETA PHOTO: This thing looks inviting.
Just above the crux.
Just above the crux.

Comments on Wine and Roses Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 18, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

A great climb with some crums near the bottom, but great rock the rest of the way.

You can traverse in from the right, past the starting flake on 'Talking Out Of Turn and establish a belay on a few stoppers at the base of this climb.

Carry a rack of nuts, a run of small cams (to 0.75") and a 2-2.5" cam. The crux is getting the feet over the lip on a rounded finger-lock above a good nut (maybe a #5 BD stopper or equiv?) For people with small fingers like mine, the top is not difficult at all, but still needs pro. Doubles in thin fingers cam-size (first-second knuckle) will be useful if you like lots of gear, but are not required.

If this thing continued another 50', it would be a 4-star classic. Sadly, it is a short line.
By david goldstein
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I agree w/ Tony's remark that this would be classic if the good part were maybe twice as long.
By climberz
Jun 27, 2008

Great climb. The rock and gear are not so good for the first 20 feet, but after the start the climbing and gear are great. Nice and steep. Clipping the first two bolts on the sport climb to the right is a safer alternative, but would change the routes character. 10+/11-
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 25, 2010

Although I didn't get this clean, I enjoyed the struggle. The moves through the small roof were bizarre for me. This climb is a bit tainted by the more recent bolted route to the right. On the FA it would have been obvious to stem to the right and step right for a rest, but now that the other route is there doing that felt like cheating. But I did it anyway.
By khoa
From: 303
Jun 17, 2010

The finger crack at the top is short but real nice.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Mar 7, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The crux on this is short but definitely in the 11a range. There are only a few moves at this level, but they definitely exist.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 3, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This route is bizarre in that trad climbing sort of way. There are some well-protected moves upon entering the corner, good stems, and tricky gear going out the roof. Body English if you're short, a long reach to a good lock if you're tall. I'll echo Tony B's gear rec. x2 in the 0.3-0.5 Camalot range, some C3s or equivalent, small stoppers and maybe a #1 Camalot. Good, funky, unique route for this grade in Boulder Canyon.