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Wine and Roses
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Wine and Roses 

Wine and Roses 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Petro and Arno Ilgner
Page Views: 5,901
Submitted By: SCherry on May 30, 2006
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Josh Finkelstein diggin' into a beauty.
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Description 

90 foot arching mostly hand crack, with a 20 foot big fingers/thin hands crux finish. Impecable rock quality, position and movement. One of the area's best and the climb to do at its grade


Location 

Locate the anchors for the climb Thanatos (plaque, and about 100 yards downstream). Walk up stream past a set of anchors for the climbs Cashew Corner and Stigmata(From these anchors you can look over the edge and see the obvious and stunning line). The next set of anchors are obvious and right above the top of the crack. Rap in from the top 90 feet to a bolted belay at a very small ledge above the river.


Protection 

Standard rack with extras in the hands sizes. We used 2-#1 camalots, 3-#2 camalots and 2-#3 camalots. Save a couple thin hands pieces for the crux (purple and grey camalots)



Photos of Wine and Roses Slideshow Add Photo
Thin crux on Wine and Roses.
Thin crux on Wine and Roses.
Josh and Sash on the ultra mega. <br />Photo by: Frosty Weller
Josh and Sash on the ultra mega.
Photo by: Frosty ...
Before the final thin section... <br />Photo by: Frosty Weller
Before the final thin section...
Photo by: Frosty ...
The fingers/thin hand finish. <br />Photo by: Frosty Weller
The fingers/thin hand finish.
Photo by: Frosty Wel...
Comments on Wine and Roses Add Comment
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By Steve Kahn
Apr 25, 2008

This route is one of the single best pitches i've ever done!

We need more stars for this one.

By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 6, 2010

This route looks spectacular. Adding it to the "to-do" list.