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The big dihedral on pitch 2 or 3 of Windy Corner.
Approach:As for Black Velvet Canyon, turn north off Highway 160 onto a dirt road, 4.6 miles west of the intersection with Highway 159. Take the (first?) obvious left turn (the turn before the one to BVC). Continue down this road, turning right at a distinctive 4-way intersection. Drive as close to the canyon as you are comfortable (the road gets a little rough). From the parking area, hike west into the canyon, following burro trails where possible and cross-country where not. Stay on the north (right) side of the wash, aiming for a notch up-canyon on the right side. The trail becomes more distinct up a steep hillside towards this notch, left of an deep canyon. March up this steep section to a flat area known as the Football Field. From here the southface of Windy Peak is obvious. Hike on up a couple hundred more feet to the base of the face. (See photo.) The approach is considered strenuous, and will take an hour or more.
(P1) Follow a crack up to a ledge. Either traverse right into the corner as a short, 4th class pitch or just move the belay right.
(P2) Climb up the squeeze chimney (you can probably walk a #4 cam), then exit out right onto the face. Climb the face belaying on a small ledge.
(P3-4) Continue up the face, moving right back into the corner. Continue up the corner until you can pull the roof and join with Jubilant Song
(P5) Continue into the gully, do some chimney moves, then move right into a water streak. Balancy moves past a bolt lead to easier ground, step left to a bush to belay.
(P6) Step back right into the water streak, and continue up difficult 5.8 moves onto easier ground. Climb a corner to a belay notch.
(P7) A 5th class move leads to 4th class slab and the summit of Windy Peak
Descent:Hike west along the summit ridge and then drop into a gully that leads back south. Depending on your instinct and luck, moderate bushwacking may be in order. Hike down the gully until given a chance to sidehill left. You should end up right at your packs.
Standard rack up to #4 Camalot
BETA PHOTO: South Face of Windy Peak
Maurice Horn leading the second pitch, above the c...
Windy Corner converges onto, and shares the same u...
An unknown climber following the "under the roof t...
|By Andrew Carson|
From: Wilson, WY
Mar 2, 2009
I think Matt meant "exit left" out of the chimney. One can also stay out of the chimney entirely by climbing its left edge. Our leader had to hang his gear from his waist to fit through the chimney's top!
Protection on Pitch 4 was a little tricky to place once up the corner a ways. Adequate, but not easy.
From: Las Vegas
Nov 22, 2009
Probably not the best route for a 5.7 leader. It's a little runout in some places.
|By George Wilson|
From: Las Vegas
Nov 25, 2009
Staying outside the chimney on pitch 2 was nice...It felt 5.7ish and leaves pro about 8' below until your able to place a bomber #4, you can even use a head jam!. You wouldn't want to peel here. There is some suspect rock higher on the route. Good route!
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jan 26, 2012
rating: 5.7+ PG13
This route has it all... and then some. Yes, the route is varied from crack/corner, face and chimney climbing but the amount of loose rock encountered along the way leaves something to be desired from this route. The route looks good from the ground but once you're on it you'll understand why routes like Jubilant Song, Western Swing and Hot Fudge Thursday are the routes more people seem to do. Though a pretty straight forward route finding the right spots to belay seemed to be an odd issue on this route. Overall the climbing is OK, the pro a spaced quite a bit and the position is good- as with most routes on the South Face. For a rack I carried a single rack of Camalots from 0C3-#4 and a healthy selection of stoppers.