P1 Start at the same ledge as Rat's Ass. Move left at start into a short right facing corner. Move left onto the face(5.9 crux) as soon as possible and follow the white streak. Stay in the sustained white streak face until the base of the corner crack (5.8+). Belay from large eyebrows or continue higher to a poor belay stance to prevent a simul-climb or trad anchor on the last pitch.
P2 Follow the corner crack to it's end, then traverse hard right to gain rap anchors near the Gemini Tree (5.5). This last pitch is a rope stretcher that either has to be broken up with a trad anchor or simul climbed to reach the anchor.
20' left of Second Coming, starts on the same belay ledge as Rat's Ass.
TCU's to 2 Camalot. Doubles of 1 and 2 camalot or blue tricam are mandatory.
Jp in the steep and sustained 5.8 section.
Jp working through the steep slab.
Mar 6, 2012
This rig is like Dinkus Dog lite and I would say the gear is better than PG-13. Take a number one stopper and key hole it in to the surreal pocket in the middle of the face.
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Agree with Phil. Considering it's looking glass and Nick Danger and Irish Jig are within plain sight this route is very very well protected.
It get my vote for most overlooked 5.9 classic in the state (outside of Pyrotechnics(?)...shhhh.....also visible from Wild Walker, although several miles away.