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Winds of Fire 

Winds of Fire 

5.10a

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Consensus: 5.10a/b [details]
FA: Scott Unice
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Aug 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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BETA PHOTO: 22 Winds of Fire 5.10

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A long, mostly not-quite-vertical route on pockets and jugs, with two small roofs to pull through.

The rock is mostly solid, although there are hollow-sounding areas throughout most of the route. The psychological crux is the first, slightly intimidating roof (and that's probably the technical crux as well).

All in all, a fun climb, and long for a single-pitch sport route.

Take care while lowering or rappelling as a 60m rope is just barely long enough (with no stretch).


Location 

Continue past the south face of Hard Rock for a couple of hundred feet. Winds of Fire is on a columnar-looking prow topped by a pointed roof.


Protection 

10 bolts to double ring rap anchors with quicklinks. Actually, there are two sets of anchors: the rap anchors mentioned and some older chains above those.



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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Aug 4, 2007

I thought this route's difficulty was probably more like 5.9, but it is in the Ruckman guide at 5.10...call it easy 5.10.

By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Sep 24, 2007

Rappelling this route is a good idea. There is some serious rope drag at the top and bottom if you lower off.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Oct 28, 2007

For what it's worth, I'll note that one of my partners, who is a stronger sport climber than I, told me he thought this route is .10d. I think he's up in the night, but one more opinion can't hurt, right?

By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 13, 2007
rating: 5.10c

This is a fabulous climb with lots to do on it. the roofs are the cruxes. pull them on small edges with tricky feet way off the ground. i'll say its 10c.

By Michael MacFadden
Jun 15, 2008
rating: 5.10b

This is a great route. There is some stemming, pockets, crimps, roofs, etc. The exposure is great as is the view from the top. Climb efficiently in the beginning because it just keeps going.

By Alec
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.10

Classic -- best .10a in the canyon. There are some interesting routefinding problems; for the onsight it'll likely be harder than 10a. Awesome feature with the business right at the top. Get on it!

By Bad Sock Puppet
From: Utah
Jun 7, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b

Hardest 10a I've been on in AF, it certainly makes the 10a to the west feel like a 5.9. The rock is much more featured than a lot of the surrounding walls and thus hides the holds quite well. I really enjoyed this route since it's different from most other AF routes. Yes there are occasional pockets as always, but there are a lot of crimps, flakes, and sketchy feet as well. The variety is great, especially with the several small roofs to pull over. The first half is nothing special, but the last half definitely makes this one worth it.

By Tanner Wise
May 26, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c

one of my favorite 10's in the canyon! the length, the variety, the rock quality, and the exposure made this climb awesome. I put it at around 5.10b/c

By bmdhacks
Oct 4, 2012
rating: 5.10b

If you extend your anchor to hang down below the prow, you'll get zero rope drag on toprope and lowering. It's only a foot or two below the chains and has line-of-sight to the belayer. Bring a bit of cordelette and you'll be fine.