Winds of Fire 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Scott Unice |
| Submitted By: | Perin Blanchard on Aug 3, 2007 |
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Description A long, mostly not-quite-vertical route on pockets and jugs, with two small roofs to pull through. The rock is mostly solid, although there are hollow-sounding areas throughout most of the route. The psychological crux is the first, slightly intimidating roof (and that's probably the technical crux as well). All in all, a fun climb, and long for a single-pitch sport route. Take care while lowering or rappelling as a 60m rope is just barely long enough (with no stretch).
Location Continue past the south face of Hard Rock for a couple of hundred feet. Winds of Fire is on a columnar-looking prow topped by a pointed roof.
Protection 10 bolts to double ring rap anchors with quicklinks. Actually, there are two sets of anchors: the rap anchors mentioned and some older chains above those.
| Comments on Winds of Fire |
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By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Aug 4, 2007
| I thought this route's difficulty was probably more like 5.9, but it is in the Ruckman guide at 5.10...call it easy 5.10. |
By jtwalter From: Orem, UT Sep 24, 2007
| Rappelling this route is a good idea. There is some serious rope drag at the top and bottom if you lower off. |
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Oct 28, 2007
| For what it's worth, I'll note that one of my partners, who is a stronger sport climber than I, told me he thought this route is .10d. I think he's up in the night, but one more opinion can't hurt, right? |
By KipHenrie From: centerville, utah Nov 13, 2007 rating: 5.10c
| This is a fabulous climb with lots to do on it. the roofs are the cruxes. pull them on small edges with tricky feet way off the ground. i'll say its 10c. |
By Michael MacFadden Jun 15, 2008 rating: 5.10b
| This is a great route. There is some stemming, pockets, crimps, roofs, etc. The exposure is great as is the view from the top. Climb efficiently in the beginning because it just keeps going. |
By Alec Jun 16, 2008 rating: 5.10
| Classic -- best .10a in the canyon. There are some interesting routefinding problems; for the onsight it'll likely be harder than 10a. Awesome feature with the business right at the top. Get on it! |
By Bad Sock Puppet From: Utah Jun 7, 2009 rating: 5.10a/b
| Hardest 10a I've been on in AF, it certainly makes the 10a to the west feel like a 5.9. The rock is much more featured than a lot of the surrounding walls and thus hides the holds quite well. I really enjoyed this route since it's different from most other AF routes. Yes there are occasional pockets as always, but there are a lot of crimps, flakes, and sketchy feet as well. The variety is great, especially with the several small roofs to pull over. The first half is nothing special, but the last half definitely makes this one worth it. |
By Tanner Wise May 26, 2011 rating: 5.10b/c
| one of my favorite 10's in the canyon! the length, the variety, the rock quality, and the exposure made this climb awesome. I put it at around 5.10b/c |
By bmdhacks Oct 4, 2012 rating: 5.10b
| If you extend your anchor to hang down below the prow, you'll get zero rope drag on toprope and lowering. It's only a foot or two below the chains and has line-of-sight to the belayer. Bring a bit of cordelette and you'll be fine. |
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