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Painted Walls
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Straights of Magellan 
Windjammer 

Windjammer 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: the Comeau's ffa webster/vogler
Season: summer/fall
Page Views: 463
Submitted By: john strand on May 28, 2008
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Steep and fun climbing in a semi-secluded area. The best rock on the cliff (some say the ONLY good rock). Good gear and quality climbing. p1 is about 10+ with fixed gear and is best combined with the second pitch 11a/b a flare/groove p3 is wild finger and hand crack up a steep wall. One long rap 180' gets you back down.


Location 

The most direct route involves crossing the river and going direct to the crag, an option is from covered bridge and then cutting in after about a 20 minute walk. NOT a very easy approach but not that bad


Protection 

standard rack, a lot of fixed gear but this could be in bad shape (f/a 81)



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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 24, 2008

This climb sometimes has a Peregrine closure- Please check

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Oct 14, 2008

Use your judgment when leading this climb...definitely not for the faint of heart. Very loose, dirty, mossy...the only solid thing about it are the bolts: 2 on P1, 2 on P2...

On the P2 crux chimney, don't think that the fixed piton will hold a lead fall (of ANY length), because it won't. I had to aid through the chimney, and when i weighted (just 150lbs of bodyweight) the piton, it flexed quite a bit...

I wouldn't be surprised if the beta on this route changes every time it's climbed. my friend and i were pulling holds off left and right.

That said, the crux is pretty cool, and the handcrack on P3 looks awesome.

By burlap submariner
Dec 22, 2009

dave when i climbed this in 2004 the first pitch had so much moss and lichen on it I damn near logged in my drawers leading it. This summer i will get back up there to clean it, and get the crux clean.

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Dec 27, 2009

What happened to this climb? It used to be excellent clean and well protected except for the pin. It's always been scary looking. Lack of climbers on the route I presume. With much maintenance (new bolts including where that pin is) it could return to being a popular destination.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 28, 2009

The problem is, if you replaced an old rotten pin with a bolt, even if Webster said it was a good idea, some idiot would get all bent out of shape. I have always heard from others who have gotten on it that it is a dirty pile. Too bad though. It does look like an interesting piece of rock.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 6, 2010

Gee, I thought this was a really good route when we did it. A variety of good hard climbing in a nice situation. Maybe the flare put people off, but it's hardly run-out at all. Maybe some one should strip the fixed gear and make it 11 R

By Jeffrey Lougee
Dec 9, 2010

A friend and I replaced all the bolts on this route a few years back. We replaced all of the original bolts on the route, including the two bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch. Apparently someone thought the original two bolt anchor atop P1 shouldn't be there, and ended up chopping it. Unfortunately, we didn't replace the pin on the crux, but it did appear as though some small aliens could be placed. We also cleaned off a fair amount of lichen, but I'm sure the climb has gotten dirty again since our foray out there. I know it doesn't see much traffic.