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Variety Delight T 
Windjammer T 


YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kent Jameson, Ken Gygi 1982
Page Views: 951
Submitted By: Mark Michaels on Jan 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Windjammer


Well, I checked it out on 11/23. We climbed to the top of the Egg (2nd pitch of Variety Delight), and then scrambled and bushwhacked and scrambled some more to the base of the crag.The route I chose started behind the big pine at the base, a rightward angling finger crack (5.9) with some tricky gear started things off.Meets a nice vertical hand crack with good gear, which pinches down to some flaring pod-jams briefly (5.10).After another 15 feet of nice jams, the vertical crack intersects the left angling "mexi-crack" which initially caught my attention.There are slings on a horn to bail at this point.I clipped the slings, shoved in a cam and tried the mexi-crack, but the rock turns to pebbles both in the crack and underfoot.I gave up after 3 or 4 short falls and bailed from the horn.There was a way old ring-peg, and some slings already on the horn, so it's definitely not new.I give it one star for great setting and fun moves, but the rock quality goes from fair to poor.If the finish had decent rock, it would get 2 stars.



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Rock Climbing Photo: Windjammer2
BETA PHOTO: Windjammer2

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By von Cloud
Nov 26, 2005

Yeah the route is pretty clearly Windjammer. I likewise was seduced by the route while climbing at the Sail. I climbed the route in winter 2002 and found some mank gear that clearly had been there for years (YEARS). The webbing mentioned that was left on the horn was likely mine (there was none at the time of my ascent)- I remember threading it through a old pin behind. The diagnoling initial crack was great and the route degrading above after a small stance. The bushwack was possibly the most joyous part.
By Nathan Fisher
Nov 26, 2005

Mark,It is in the book under the Egg, I believe. (In St. George, and I didn't bring my book with me.) The 5.10 crack above the Egg. Windjammer????I also looked and saw and drooled, (from atop the second pitch of the Coffin) then realized which route it was, and saw my FA melt before my eyes. Let me (us)know what you think about it when you do it.
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Nov 27, 2005

Yeah, It's Windjammer; I checked the guide....first done in 1982.There's no topo, just an obvious description.The crag is visible from the road below the Egg, it's not "hidden" as much as I thought!
By Nathan Fisher
Nov 27, 2005

Just relocated all the info to Windjammer from Hidden Rock. P.S. Mark I tried to give you a heads up, but your e-mail is bad.
By Alec
Jul 7, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great jamming in that hand crack. Rock is quite gritty but the gear isn't too bad. Our group of 3 agreed on more of a 5.9 rating.

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