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Start on the right-leaning ramp as for Freedom and break left up to a mantel passed two pins.... Straight up to the overlap using the undercling and some tiny crimps mantel through the crux....
Continue up the face 5.8R to a bolt...after the bolt, it's 5.8 climbing with some fixed pro to the anchor....
Finish up Missing Link for a consistent 5.10a of high quality....
The next route left of Freedom...Look for an undercling in the overlap....
Mostly fixed pins and bolts, but a #1 Camalot helps at the crux overlap...You may want to bring a small rack to supplement the fixed gear....
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Jun 12, 2008
Try the direct start- Capitol Gains 11d/V3 no gear but can be Tr from the 2 initial pins
Jun 2, 2009
It is possible to get a small cam on the left after pulling the roof. At the fragile flake, a pink tricam provides some peace of mind before you bust the mantle. I find that stepping left after the bolt makes the finish more entertaining.