Wind Beneath the Devil's Wings
||Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
|Original: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Jason Haas and Tony Bubb, 10/6/07|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Autumn, when not closed or snowed in|
|Page Views: ||195|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 7, 2007|
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A 125' route with perhaps 50' of meat and 75' of cruise. But the cruise is pleasant and does not detract from the route at all.
Walk North along the base of the cliff to come to a large inset. There are a few trees at the base, and growing in the wall of the left side. On the right, a long slab with some cracks rises to below a dark red and brown band of rock, which on the left-facing corner of the right side is capped by two roofs. Climb the slab to the first of the two roofs and undercling and jam right under the roof (protect now) to turn the corner and get established in an obtuse dihedral with a tiny seam (no pro now) make a few awkward moves (crux, 10a) to stand up high and reach better holds. Continue in the corner to the second roof, which is easily enough passed by going right below it to a ledge, then up on easy cracks to the summit.
To descend, look Northward to a pine with a sling and ring anchor. Scramble around past this on the back side, then down the low angle rock to reach it. A 60M rope will easily get you down.
About 2/3 of the way left along the length of the summit ridge of the West Face of the Devil's Wings. This climb is in the right side of a very large inset in the rock, which is capped by a set of very large red-brown bulges on the right side. The climb ascends the right side of this inset, traversing out and right under both roofs through the band.
A standard rack to 3.5" including longer slings. The initial slab is seldom protected, but the available gear is very good and the climbing easy.