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Table Dome
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Beggar's Banquet T 
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Wily Javelina T,S 

Wily Javelina 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 700', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Will McCarthy (1991)
Season: Everything BUT the Summer
Page Views: 2,775
Submitted By: Luis Cisneros on Mar 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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pitch two close-up

Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a phenomenal line that wanders up a low angle wall. This canyon offers fantastic views. The line itself is very fun and climbs on different kinds of granite on every pitch.

The bolts are a bit spaced, but this is not a problem if you are a comfortable 5.9 climber. If you get lost, keep looking, in most cases you should be able to spot the next bolt from any given one. When the route is not clear, the climbing is easy, so just follow the 'easy-way' up and you surely will find the next bolt or belay station. All anchors are bolted.

The first pitch is kind of the hardest one for your head, and maybe the most sustained one. The rest will feel more smooth and consistently easy face climbing, though a bit flaky in places and a few short crux moves here and there... nothing is harder than 5.8/5.9(-)

The last pitch finishes on the big ledge under the rock feature on the top. You can scramble around the west side of this feature to summit. Great views from there, is really worth it!


Location 

The route starts close bellow of some brown water streak marks on the middle-right side of the wall. There is an obvious roof at the base of the streaks. The first bolt of Wily is about 30 feet left of the roof. This bolt is about 30 feet up from the base but the climbing is easy (the actual roof is the first pitch of Table for Two).

From the top, there is a rap line (5 raps) down over Table for Two that is save and goes straight down. You will need two ropes to rap down.

Protection 

The line is all bolted. A few nuts and plenty of slings for chicken heads come handy.
All the anchors are bolted but they have no chains, only slings. If you need to bail, consider changing a few of them.

Also, most bolts are new.


Photos of Wily Javelina Slideshow Add Photo
Second pitch up Willy Javalina
Second pitch up Willy Javalina
Mendoza Canyon - Table Dome - Wily Javelina
BETA PHOTO: Mendoza Canyon - Table Dome - Wily Javelina
Kimberly follows pitch 3
Kimberly follows pitch 3
last pitch.  this is the finish that goes straight up and stays independent of table for two
last pitch. this is the finish that goes straight...
Starting up the first pitch
Starting up the first pitch
cindy leading pitch two
cindy leading pitch two
First pitch of WJ
First pitch of WJ
cindy & naomi at the top of pitch three, taken from the top of pitch four of table for two
cindy & naomi at the top of pitch three, taken fro...
cindy and naomi on pitch one
cindy and naomi on pitch one
another of the last pitch
another of the last pitch

Comments on Wily Javelina Add Comment
Show which comments
By Meghan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Dec 23, 2008

This is an awsome route if you like slab. As for the "R" rating, It is well bolted through the harder moves and run out on the easy sections. For a really solid 5.9 leader, it will seem very safe, but for someone who is shaky on a 5.9, you may want to wait. The first bolt is probably 30-40' from the ground on relatively easy climbing. The last two pitches are only protected by one bolt and chicken heads, but there are bomber holds everywhere and the chicken heads are good.
By Dustin Urban
Nov 20, 2009

Fun route. I actually thought pitch 4 was the most fun and probably the crux. An airy couple moves over the bulge on good rock. Some substantial runouts on probably 5.8 terrain. The rock quality isn't as classic as Cochise, but it's a perfect outing if you're looking for something moderate but still exciting, long and adventurous. I placed 2 pieces all day- a big (yellow i think) BD C4 on pitch 3 (probably unnecessary) and a .3 camalot on the last pitch. Also slung 3 or 4 chicken heads on the last 2 pitches. Have fun!

FOR GETTING THERE- Start your clock for the 0.8 miles mentioned above at the sign in station. Note that you will pass several right turns before you hit the correct one. There was some faded pink flagging on a bush at the correct turn.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 15, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

The P4 bulge that Dustin mentions is awesome climbing but a fall from there might hurt (onto a ledge)--one of the few, if not the only places where the run-outs are not on easier terrain.

On the last two pitches, I found 3 bolts on P5, and then went straight up on P6 and was surprised to find 2 more bolts, each of which I almost climbed past (they really weren't necessary as there were heads all over the place). This finish was completely independent of Table for Two and these pitches were fun 5.6/5.7. Great route overall with a very different feel from Table for Two, which climbs more in corners and distinct features. Also much more sustained than Table for Two.
By dcohn
Jan 3, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

As mentioned above, this is 6 pitches, not 5. The route is the first route to the left of the small roof. If you encounter quick links and/or bail biners early on, you are probably on Three Draws and a Little Lady.
By Steven W. Johnson
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jan 23, 2010

Wily Javelina is a fun route with a lot of bolts on it for the area. Small wires and cams can be placed here and there throughout the route if you feel you need them. Yes, the first pitch starts just left of the roof for Table for Two. The bolt you see 30 to 40 feet up is the start of the route. If you start on the other side of the tree to the far left of the roof for Table for Two and climb through a bolt or two and pass a button head (that you can cinch a small wire onto for protection) you are on the wrong route. Then the choice becomes do you keep on climbing for a pitch and a half or so until you see the bolts for Wily on your right and traverse over, or do you back off while your not to far up and move over to start Wily just to the left of the roof. The route finding the rest of the way is easy and the bolts present just when you start wondering where the next is. As you can tell, we got started on the wrong route. What are a father and son to do? Simulclimb!