Wily Javelina 5.9 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Will McCarthy (1991) |
| Season: | Everything BUT the Summer |
| Submitted By: | Luis Cisneros on Mar 18, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Mendoza Canyon - Table Dome - Wily Javelina
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Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED! MORE INFO >>>
The access for Mendoza Canyon is via the good graces of the owner of the King Anvil Ranch you pass through to get to the canyon. Update from Jeff Mayhew: 3-20-10 Mendoza Canyon access will still be open through King's Anvil Ranch from September 1 through March 1, as usual. The ranch owner, John King, is considering allowing foot access again at the original parking area, (see Approach Map,) from Sept. 1 through Dec. 1. After that he may re-post the No Trespassing sign, but may still allow foot access through the alternate parking area at the north end of the canyon's mouth, (see map.) Legally set traps are throughout the area so the suggestion is to leave the dogs at home. Regardless of this information, please obey all posted signs in the area. Access is still hanging by a thread! After talking to Game and Fish, State Land Dept., and BLM it is clear that Mr. King has every right to block access at any time... and he is ready to at the drop of a hat. Fortunately, there are only about 15 of us that even go out there, so we mainly have to worry about the random rabble-rousers, (now there's a good name for a climb!) Thanks for all the support and feel free to contact me. Jeff Mayhew (user JMayhew on this site) Update from Jeff Mayhew 10-18-10 As of 10/2010 the access along the dirt road leading from the "original parking" at the small corral (see approach map) is still signed "No Trespassing." Please respect that! The "alternate parking" shown on the map still allows foot access along an old, faint road. This eventually connects to the main dirt road before the pond, but Mr. King had said last spring that access was permitted at that point, as long as people respected the private property. Be sure to remember that fork--it can be tricky to see when you're hiking out tired... and possibly in the dark! There is still an old, hand written note in the sign-in box stating access to Mendoza is closed. This was in there before Mr. King gave "us" permission to access via this alternate roadway. Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10): We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs. Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a phenomenal line that wanders up a low angle wall. This canyon offers fantastic views. The line itself is very fun and climbs on different kinds of granite on every pitch. The bolts are a bit spaced, but this is not a problem if you are a comfortable 5.9 climber. If you get lost, keep looking, in most cases you should be able to spot the next bolt from any given one. When the route is not clear, the climbing is easy, so just follow the 'easy-way' up and you surely will find the next bolt or belay station. All anchors are bolted. The first pitch is kind of the hardest one for your head, and maybe the most sustained one. The rest will feel more smooth and consistently easy face climbing, though a bit flaky in places and a few short crux moves here and there... nothing is harder than 5.8/5.9(-) The last pitch finishes on the big ledge under the rock feature on the top. You can scramble around the west side of this feature to summit. Great views from there, is really worth it!
Location The route starts close bellow of some brown water streak marks on the middle-right side of the wall. There is an obvious roof at the base of the streaks. The first bolt of Wily is about 30 feet left of the roof. This bolt is about 30 feet up from the base but the climbing is easy (the actual roof is the first pitch of Table for Two). From the top, there is a rap line (5 raps) down over Table for Two that is save and goes straight down. You will need two ropes to rap down.
Protection The line is all bolted. A few nuts and plenty of slings for chicken heads come handy. All the anchors are bolted but they have no chains, only slings. If you need to bail, consider changing a few of them. Also, most bolts are new.
Second pitch up Willy Javalina
| Kimberly follows pitch 3
| Starting up the first pitch
| First pitch of WJ
| cindy and naomi on pitch one
| cindy leading pitch two
| pitch two close-up
| cindy & naomi at the top of pitch three, taken fro...
| last pitch. this is the finish that goes straight...
| another of the last pitch
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| Comments on Wily Javelina |
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By Meghan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Dec 23, 2008
| This is an awsome route if you like slab. As for the "R" rating, It is well bolted through the harder moves and run out on the easy sections. For a really solid 5.9 leader, it will seem very safe, but for someone who is shaky on a 5.9, you may want to wait. The first bolt is probably 30-40' from the ground on relatively easy climbing. The last two pitches are only protected by one bolt and chicken heads, but there are bomber holds everywhere and the chicken heads are good. |
By Dustin Urban Nov 20, 2009
| Fun route. I actually thought pitch 4 was the most fun and probably the crux. An airy couple moves over the bulge on good rock. Some substantial runouts on probably 5.8 terrain. The rock quality isn't as classic as Cochise, but it's a perfect outing if you're looking for something moderate but still exciting, long and adventurous. I placed 2 pieces all day- a big (yellow i think) BD C4 on pitch 3 (probably unnecessary) and a .3 camalot on the last pitch. Also slung 3 or 4 chicken heads on the last 2 pitches. Have fun! FOR GETTING THERE- Start your clock for the 0.8 miles mentioned above at the sign in station. Note that you will pass several right turns before you hit the correct one. There was some faded pink flagging on a bush at the correct turn. |
By Charles Vernon From: Tucson, AZ Dec 15, 2009 rating: 5.9 PG13
| The P4 bulge that Dustin mentions is awesome climbing but a fall from there would be bad (onto a ledge)--one of the few, if not the only places where the run-outs are not on easier terrain. On the last two pitches, I found 3 bolts on P5, and then went straight up on P6 and was surprised to find 2 more bolts, each of which I almost climbed past (they really weren't necessary as there were heads all over the place). This finish was completely independent of Table for Two and these pitches were fun 5.6/5.7. Great route overall with a very different feel from Table for Two, which climbs more in corners and distinct features. Also much more sustained than Table for Two. |
By dcohn Jan 3, 2010 rating: 5.9 R
| As mentioned above, this is 6 pitches, not 5. The route is the first route to the left of the small roof. If you encounter quick links and/or bail biners early on, you are probably on Three Draws and a Little Lady. |
By Steven W. Johnson From: Tucson, Arizona Jan 23, 2010
| Wily Javelina is a fun route with a lot of bolts on it for the area. Small wires and cams can be placed here and there throughout the route if you feel you need them. Yes, the first pitch starts just left of the roof for Table for Two. The bolt you see 30 to 40 feet up is the start of the route. If you start on the other side of the tree to the far left of the roof for Table for Two and climb through a bolt or two and pass a button head (that you can cinch a small wire onto for protection) you are on the wrong route. Then the choice becomes do you keep on climbing for a pitch and a half or so until you see the bolts for Wily on your right and traverse over, or do you back off while your not to far up and move over to start Wily just to the left of the roof. The route finding the rest of the way is easy and the bolts present just when you start wondering where the next is. As you can tell, we got started on the wrong route. What are a father and son to do? Simulclimb! |
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