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Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack T 
Better Left Undone T 
Four-Wheel Low T 
Fred and Barney's Crack T 
Junk Corner T 
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Left-facing Corner (unknown) T 
Pair a'grins aka Unknown Roof/Corner T 
Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station T 
Pure Pressure (submitted as Cowboy Justice) T 
Rednekk Justus T 
Right Horseshoe Finger T 
Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) T 
S Crack T 
TH Crack T 
Three Blocks T 
Twenty Too Short T 
Unknown 5.9 T 
Unknown Awkward T 
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Willy's Hand Jive T 

Willy's Hand Jive 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chuck Grossman, Chris Begue, and friend, 1982
Page Views: 8,771
Submitted By: ChadARobinson on May 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Splitter.

Description 

This is the obvious, splitter crack across the gully from S-Crack. Climb tight hands to perfect big hands (#3 Camalot) to a funky pod (crux). It is slightly overhanging for most of the way. Excellent.

Location 

This is across the gully from S-Crack. It is easy to see from the parking area.

Protection 

#1s, #2s and #3s (Camalots). Maybe a #4 just below the pod.


Photos of Willy's Hand Jive Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me negotiating the pod crux at the top of Willy's....
Me negotiating the pod crux at the top of Willy's....
Rock Climbing Photo: J. on lead on Willy's.
J. on lead on Willy's.
Rock Climbing Photo: Henry makes his way up Willy's.
Henry makes his way up Willy's.
Rock Climbing Photo: J. Weingast leading Willy's
J. Weingast leading Willy's
Rock Climbing Photo: And one more from above of J. Weingast negotiating...
And one more from above of J. Weingast negotiating...
Rock Climbing Photo: A from above shot of J. Weingast at the funky pod ...
A from above shot of J. Weingast at the funky pod ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shawn Wright using the left face hold to negotiate...
Shawn Wright using the left face hold to negotiate...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading Willy's. Such an awesome splitter.  Pho...
Me leading Willy's. Such an awesome splitter. Pho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shawn Wright leading the awesome Willy's Hand Jive...
Shawn Wright leading the awesome Willy's Hand Jive...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sooooo goooood.
Sooooo goooood.
Rock Climbing Photo: What a splitter!!!!!
What a splitter!!!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Patrick Ackerson at start of WHJ.
Patrick Ackerson at start of WHJ.
Rock Climbing Photo: From the bottom of Willy's Hand Jive, Escalante Ca...
From the bottom of Willy's Hand Jive, Escalante Ca...

Comments on Willy's Hand Jive Add Comment
Show which comments
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Aug 18, 2009

FA Chuck Grossman.
By slim
Administrator
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Pretty wild that the FA (according to Desert Rock, which may be inaccurate) was 1983, when 'Rusty's Cave', just to the L went up in '78. DR says descent is "walk left", but that would be pretty daunting. You might be able to head to the right and finish up 'Pair o' Grins', but I am not certain.
By chris begue
Jun 16, 2010

First ascent was in 1982, done by the awesome Chuck Grossman, Chris Begue, and a friend from Phili whose name is forgotten. There was a killer, loose block in the wide section whick may have been a factor to the lateness of the first ascent or just the remoteness of the area. Back then most of the cracks were unclimbed and ripe for first ascents by the likes of Robert Filmore, John Hulett, Dave Henritze.
By slim
Administrator
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Thanks for the info, Chris!
By Martin Harris
Dec 1, 2010

This thing is a clinic on cupped hands at least for me anyway.
By Ryan N
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 22, 2012

Climbed this last week and I have a few pointers for finding it.

The beta says find the obvious splitter across from S Crack as viewed from the parking lot. You definitely cannot see it from the parking lot. It's on the far left of the buttress, which from the parking lot looks like it's separate. If you hike the wash from the left of the parking lot, it will gradually come into view. You will probably notice s crack on the right first, that's when you head up the hill on the left. The climb is great, bring 1, 2, 3, and 4, use face holds when you get to the pod. The chain anchor is above ledge on right.
By javi
From: saint george area
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I felt the crack up higher was challenging #2 BDs were mostly undercammed #3 BDs were mostly overcammed till right near the pod. Friends may be better on this climb.... I also used a BD #5 in the bottom of the pod.... Three stars because of the choss bottom and funky size. Might be awesome for someone with XL or XS hands
(if you plan on TR this bring a 20' cordelette loop to extend anchor).
By Drew Herder
From: Montrose, CO
May 15, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A 60m rope js long enough to rap from the anchors, got us down easy from the bolts. Did use 20' of cordelette for the TR, perfect!

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