Willy's Hand Jive 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Chuck Grossman, Chris Begue, and friend, 1982 |
| Submitted By: | HangingChad on May 12, 2009 |
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From the bottom of Willy's Hand Jive, Escalante Ca...
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Description This is the obvious, splitter crack across the gully from S-Crack. Climb tight hands to perfect big hands (#3 Camalot) to a funky pod (crux). It is slightly overhanging for most of the way. Excellent.
Location This is across the gully from S-Crack. It is easy to see from the parking area.
Protection #1s, #2s and #3s (Camalots). Maybe a #4 just below the pod.
Patrick Ackerson at start of WHJ.
| What a splitter!!!!!
| Splitter.
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| Comments on Willy's Hand Jive |
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By Allen Hill From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine Aug 18, 2009
| FA Chuck Grossman. |
By slim Apr 5, 2010 rating: 5.10b
| Pretty wild that the FA (according to Desert Rock, which may be inaccurate) was 1983, when 'Rusty's Cave', just to the L went up in '78. DR says descent is "walk left", but that would be pretty daunting. You might be able to head to the right and finish up 'Pair o' Grins', but I am not certain. |
By chris begue Jun 16, 2010
| First ascent was in 1982, done by the awesome Chuck Grossman, Chris Begue, and a friend from Phili whose name is forgotten. There was a killer, loose block in the wide section whick may have been a factor to the lateness of the first ascent or just the remoteness of the area. Back then most of the cracks were unclimbed and ripe for first ascents by the likes of Robert Filmore, John Hulett, Dave Henritze. |
By slim Jun 16, 2010 rating: 5.10b
| Thanks for the info, Chris! |
By martinharris From: Glenwood Springs CO Dec 1, 2010
| This thing is a clinic on cupped hands at least for me anyway. |
By Ryan N From: Bay Area Aug 22, 2012
| Climbed this last week and I have a few pointers for finding it. The beta says find the obvious splitter across from S Crack as viewed from the parking lot. You definitely cannot see it from the parking lot. It's on the far left of the buttress, which from the parking lot looks like it's separate. If you hike the wash from the left of the parking lot, it will gradually come into view. You will probably notice s crack on the right first, that's when you head up the hill on the left. The climb is great, bring 1, 2, 3, and 4, use face holds when you get to the pod. The chain anchor is above ledge on right. |
By javi From: saint george area Sep 3, 2012 rating: 5.10+
| I felt the crack up higher was challenging #2 BDs were mostly undercammed #3 BDs were mostly overcammed till right near the pod. Friends may be better on this climb.... I also used a BD #5 in the bottom of the pod.... Three stars because of the choss bottom and funky size. Might be awesome for someone with XL or XS hands (if you plan on TR this bring a 20' cordelette loop to extend anchor). |
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