This has two one-star pitches, one new, one old - well sorta old, just got beaten to this one, which together make for a sustained worthy route.
Hike up the south side of the formation, passing first the regular start to the other routes, then follow for about 150 feet a very steep but short blank face, then an extensive area of steep crunchy-looking right-facing, pinky dihedrals, which continue to the west end. Just at the transition, at about 150 feet above the regular start, behind some dead trees, is a nice, moderately steep, gray slab angling up and right, with a thin, right-facing flake/undercling about fifteen feet up, and some pebbles, and a few small pockets. This is about twenty-five feet above a six-foot rock step in the "trail" right next to the rock.
Pitch 1. Start just right of a pink blocky area, and angle up and right. You will pass various spots for Aliens. About thirty feet up you meet a welcome section of deep crack, angling up and left (there is a fist-size pebble protruding just below this) Place some bomber cams here, and move right, into a scooped area above an overhang and near a large old dead tree. From here, run it out, up edges and smears (staying below and right of a scabby roof) to the obvious easy terrain above (5.9s possibly thirty foot fall/pendulum here, though you should not really hit anything). Stroll fifteen feet up the arete to a belay at a large flake on the left edge of the slab. (This appears to be where Swing Time/Dihedral crosses right-to left and leaves the slab). Use wires here if you only brought one set of Aliens.
Pitch 2. Smear up and right across the slab to the obvious roof crack (this is described in the description of Mr Nasty) Up this, a burly 5.10a move, well protected by Aliens, (as the description for Mr Nasty says, a large Camalot (4.5?) would provide overhead pro). No Tricams or heel hooking used on this ascent! Scamper to the summit, relax, and enjoy watching the herds of livestock grazing on the Third. . . .
Bring a regular Eldo-style rack, up to 3", and maybe double cams to 1.5"
|By Willie Mein|
Sep 3, 2002
Is that new math? One star pitch plus one star pitch equals two star route? I've got a four star route on the Rotwand for ya! Good work Crusher and Fran. Nice name, too. Everybody knows a cold Willie is not a happy Willie.