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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Willow World 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
FA: M. Brooks, 1982
Page Views: 218
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 6, 2004
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

To find this pile, continue past the Cirque of the Cracks, passing 'The Formula' (a short, steep dihedral with a fixed pin and wire) and continuing for ~ 8 meters uphill (west) to a few parallel cracks in a shallow inset.

Climb these parallels in the awkward inset until they converge on a sloping ledge 8-10 meters up. Mount the ledge and step just right to a sloping arete with bad gear and loose rock. This is the insecure crux, then continue up a 2" and smaller crack to the top. A tree to the West has a recently replaced fixed rap, but it is only 1 pc of webbing and a ring- solid FOR NOW.

Rap to the West, just over the route Rhadamanthus.


Protection 

A standard rack and some small nuts. The insecure crux is not well protected. Large loose flakes are present at the same place.



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