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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Mail T 
Backslash T 
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 
Bit by Bit T,S 
Bottlenecks T 
Clean Dan T 
Coffee Break with Joe T 
Cold Turkey T 
Coniferous Types T 
Crazy Fingers T 
Cruising Lane T 
Detour, The T 
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 
Duh Dihedral T 
Early Bird Special T 
Fine Line T,TR 
Fork in the Road T 
Formula, The T 
Foxtrot T 
Funeral March T 
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 
Hang Ten T,TR 
Highway 61 T 
Inverted Vee T 
Iron Pony T,S 
Kashmir T,TR 
Kubla Khan T 
Lady Fingers T 
Lunar Avenue T 
Lunar Lander T 
Masterbator's Edge, The T 
Milk and Honey T 
Milk Dreams T 
Mirage T 
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 
Parallels T 
Pool of Blood T 
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 
Rhadamanthus T 
River Of Darkness T 
Road Narrows T 
Sign of the Cross T 
Snail Mail T 
Srinagar T 
Tampon T,TR 
Tango T 
Tanqueray T 
Terminal Velocity T 
Texas Two-Step T 
Three Lane Highway T 
Toprope Right of Formula TR 
Trip Itch T 
Tryptich T 
Whatever T 
Willow World T 
Working Class Hero T 
X T 
Xanadu T 
Zap Snack T 
Zip Code T 

Willow World 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: M. Brooks, 1982
Page Views: 334
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 6, 2004

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

To find this pile, continue past the Cirque of the Cracks, passing 'The Formula' (a short, steep dihedral with a fixed pin and wire) and continuing for ~ 8 meters uphill (west) to a few parallel cracks in a shallow inset.

Climb these parallels in the awkward inset until they converge on a sloping ledge 8-10 meters up. Mount the ledge and step just right to a sloping arete with bad gear and loose rock. This is the insecure crux, then continue up a 2" and smaller crack to the top. A tree to the West has a recently replaced fixed rap, but it is only 1 pc of webbing and a ring- solid FOR NOW.

Rap to the West, just over the route Rhadamanthus.

Protection 

A standard rack and some small nuts. The insecure crux is not well protected. Large loose flakes are present at the same place.


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By Dave Holliday
Dec 7, 2014

I've done worse routes in Eldo. The route looks pretty good from the ground, but much of the rock is hollow; I suspect some gear might hold a fall, but I wouldn't want to test it.

There aren't any slings on trees at the top. It's pretty trivial to scramble and then walk towards the base of Xanadu to descend.