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Willow Springs South

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abdominizer, The T 
Above and Beyond T 
Above, Above and Beyond T 
Beyond and Above T 
Chocolate Tranquility Fountain T 
Fruit Loops T 
Fun And Games T 
Geezer's Face T 
Gimp's Arete T 
Hawk Eye T 
Little Black Book T 
Lucky Charms T 
N'Plus Ultra T 
Nadia's Nine T 
New Hips Corner T 
Pillar Talk T 
Senior Moment T 
Sleeper T 
Taking Care of Business T 
Unsorted Routes:

Willow Springs South Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 7,614
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: J. Thompson on Apr 13, 2005

85° | 62°
Memorial Day

89° | 67°

92° | 66°

92° | 64°

93° | 66°

96° | 67°
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Canyon above Hidden Falls. Photo by Blitzo.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is a section of cliffs- you guessed it!- South of Willow Springs. This area ranges from Nadia's Nine to the Hidden Wall.It includes the classic N'Plus Ultra roof.

Getting There 

Park at Willow Springs. Hike south and a little east, using the trails as much as possible.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.1 miles from here

19 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Willow Springs South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Willow Springs South:
Little Black Book   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
New Hips Corner   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Senior Moment   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
Fruit Loops   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Chocolate Tranquility Fountain   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Lucky Charms   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Pillar Talk   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Gimp's Arete   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Sleeper   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
Above and Beyond   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Above, Above and Beyond   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Beyond and Above   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Nadia's Nine   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
N'Plus Ultra   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Willow Springs South

Featured Route For Willow Springs South
Rock Climbing Photo: Nadia's Nine begins in the narrow V-corner shown b...

Nadia's Nine 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  NV : Red Rock : ... : Willow Springs South
See photo for exact location, about 100 yards to the left and slightly lower than Nadia's Niche. The climb's distinctive feature is an overhanging, cobra-hooded dihedral that forms the second pitch. Both pitches are well-protected and interesting.Pitch 1 -- Climb a smooth-walled dark V-corner with good rock (5.9+).Pitch 2 -- Move the belay a few yards to the right, then climb a prominent, steep inside corner/crack that overhangs at the top (5.9)....[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of Willow Springs South Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pillar Talk and surrounding routes
Pillar Talk and surrounding routes
Rock Climbing Photo: Willow Spring South
BETA PHOTO: Willow Spring South

Comments on Willow Springs South Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 13, 2015
For the love of god, could someone familiar with this area please sort these routes left -- right! Got there today and let's just say alphabetical isn't ideal.
By Gini Kramer
From: North Haven, CT
Mar 21, 2016
It took a bit of doing, but I think I have the routes on the lower tier in order from left to right:

UNKNOWN ARETE (5.8) — 10’ left of New Hips Corner
NEW HIPS CORNER (5.5) — 10’ left of Unknown 5.8
UNKNOWN (5.8) -- 100' left of Pillar Talk, 10' right of New Hips Corner
LUCKY CHARMS (5.7) -- 5’ of Senior Moment
SENIOR MOMENT (5.5) — face to the left of Pillar Talk
LITTLE BLACK BOOK (5.4) — corner left of Pillar Talk
PILLAR TALK (5.7) -- tall white pillar, easy to spot from a distance
SLEEPER (5.9) — face to the right of Pillar Talk
HAWK EYE (5.5)— face to right of Sleeper
FRUIT LOOPS (5.6) — 100’ right of Pillar Talk

N'PLUS ULTRA appears to be well to the left of the above group according to the photo in the Handren book.

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