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Fred Beckey, still leading at age 80+!
Short but sweet slab route on the lower (left) end of Indian Palisades Corridor -- duck around the right side of Willit Pillar, do a short scramble up to your left, and you're there -- almost directly behind the pillar. The climb ascends the middle of the face past an obvious line of bolts. It is well-bolted, classic Joshua Tree friction. Good practice for longer slab climbs like Double Dip, Stichter Quits, and Walk on the Wild Side. My only complaint is that it's too short!!
Vogel rates this climb at 5.5, but Bartlett calls it a 5.7. Splitting the difference and calling it 5.6 sounds about right to me.
4 or 5 bolts on the route; I believe there's a two-bolt anchor, although it's been a while.
BETA PHOTO: Indian Palisades Corridor
BETA PHOTO: Willit Slab.
Photo by Blitzo.
Anchored in at the top of Willit Slab. Looking dow...
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 12, 2003
My son and I have done this route many times and find it to be a very enjoyable climb around sunset this glorious summer of 2003. We pack some food and hang out up top, feel the breeze, watch the changing light. I feel 5.6 is a fair rating. I have climbed it backwards before (toes towards the belayer on the ground). Then I feel a 5.7 rating is closer. One thing is for sure, in the late afternoon, it's a kick to run laps on.
From: Westminster, CO
Sep 13, 2004
Today Jacob led his first time today on this slab. I congratulate him. 14yr old local kid that someday may well kick our old butts (Not just yet however). I have taught many peoples on this very slab the basics of friction, leading, top roping etc... It is in my eyes one of the best for begining climbers. Unfortunatly it is super hot in the summer. But winter is great as it is in the sun most of the day. Congratulations again Jacob for a fine lead. You're on your way now. Be smart and become an old/bold climber..........
Sep 14, 2004
Great route, The photo is the wrong photo for it. This was my frist lead, 5 bolts on the face, I think there should be 6 though. 2 bolt anchor with a chain on top, One of the bolts might need to be replaced soon. Locker told me that so Its gotta be true.. one of the bolts on the face i think it was the 3rd was a little bit loose, which scared me. But i think its a great route to teach on.. Too bad its not a multi pitch... Go later in the evening because It was directly in the sun and was cooking our hands...
Sep 19, 2004
It is not the climb to fear-it's-the approach. Jacob, there are too many bolts on it....since Locker can climb it backwards and today I sang some silly Everly brothers song as I lead it, I'd say downrate it to 5.0.
Feb 19, 2008
Really, really enjoyed this climb. Rolled out of the tent and headed over to this one after seeing some people on it the day before. On lead it felt like 5.7+ to my morning brain and feet, but later on top rope I simply ran up it with little effort. I would say this is a harder climb than Toe The Line by a long shot.
Absolutely recommended for those solid on 7's wanting to work on their head - you miss the move going up to the second bolt stance, you will deck. Great mind games!
From: Twentynine Palms, CA
Apr 7, 2008
I thought this route was harder than the 5.9 Toe the line to the left of this climb! It was a challenging friction climb, but lot's of fun!
Jun 26, 2008
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Feb 2, 2009
I'd give it 5.7. There are a couple of small wire placements between bolts 3 and 4.
It looks like one could continue this route on the face above and right of the current anchor, there's even a horizontal for pro and a nice finishing ledge, it would need at least one more bolt to be in character with the rest of the route....clip bolt #5, step right and continue up the face.
|By Bob Mcdonald|
Nov 2, 2009
I second the 5.6 This is a great little confidence builder for newbie face/friction leaders. The first picture is the right side of I.P.C does anyone know the name/rating of the 4 bolt route just left of the center that starts below a small bulge with the first bolt about 20 feet up and ends on the pie plates and the small tree?
|By Rodger Raubach|
Mar 11, 2011
Found my old notes and figured out that I climbed this before it was in a guidebook (Wolfe), but is now in Vogel. I estimated the difficulty as "easier than Black Tide," and probably 5.6.