Willie's Weep  5.2

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 225 feet Consensus:  5.3 [details] FA:  George and Herbert Evans and Robert Graef (1953) Submitted By:  Tim Schafstall on Apr 11, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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MORE INFO >>> This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Yuck!!

Not because of anything weeping, but because of the wandering P1 and some loose rock. We never got to the weepy part (actually, we never really wanted to do the route after downclimbing and rapping it to get off Triple Bulges), which is after the nice rappel at the top of P2.

Williams describes a direct variation that ascends the obvious long corner partway up P1 (essentially avoiding the last traverse) with a rating of 5.6 G to which he gives one star. It looked uninviting and I've not done it.

P1 - Climb a short left-facing corner to a stance, then move up and right to a short, wide horizontal at about 50 feet. Diagonal left to another horizontal and move still farther left to the large, obvious corner with some broken rock. Traverse left past some loose rock (scary for 5.2) to the belay tree/ledge for Twin Oaks.

P2 - Williams describes a second pitch that seems awfully close to Triple Bulges, perhaps a bit right, without the final bulges. I tried to follow it but kept ending up actually on Triple Bulges.

P3 - Avoid. From the belay tree, climb the seepy, broken 15-foot high corner to climber's left, then move left and up the grassy, easy face to the top. Definitely not worth doing.

Location 

About 35 feet right and around the corner from the obvious crack that marks Twin Oaks.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack. Williams' Guide says G, but I found P1 very PG.