Willie's Danish Prince  5.9+

73 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  2011 New Route:  Yes Season:  Apr-Oct Submitted By:  Jay Harrison on Nov 30, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Setting out on the FA. Note the huge flake - you d...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

The hardest moves are near the lower bolts, however, the upper face is almost equally challenging.
You do not have to touch the loose block at the start - and probably shouldn't.
Climb up onto the top of the flake, move up (bolt)and right below a bulge, passing the bulge to the right (bolt) to gain a ledge. Traverse right to a vertical crack and follow it to an overhang. Climb through the overhang at a thin seam, trend up and left (two bolts), reaching the right end of a small ledge below a final 15' slab. Climb directly up the slab to the belay ledge.
While not as thrilling as Long Play, this route provides an enjoyable alternative/additional line up the wall.

Location 

Start: On the left side of the main face, 12' left of a wide, open book/corner, at a right-facing flake below and left of a large, loose block pasted to the wall.
Unlike Induhvidual, one does not clamber up the gully to get to this route.
Descent: Rappel via 70m rope or two rappels, using fixed anchors to either side of the Long Play Wall.

Protection 

Full standard rack, including C3s or similar.
There are 4 bolts en route, two in the first 30' and two along the face climbing above the overhang.
Tree anchors are at the top.