Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 5,370 ft
GPS: 35.10002, -111.96548
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 516,851 total · 3,494/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jan 24, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

Sycamore Canyon is a massive Mogollon Rim drainage tucked away in a thick Ponderosa pine forest, just south of Garland Prairie. Timeless crags such as Paradise Forks, Volunteer Canyon, "The land of a thousand climbs" Sycamore Point, and a newer addition, Whitetail Canyon, are all found on the rim of Sycamore Canyon or its side canyons. These columnar basalt canyons are home to some of the best hard stone crack climbing in Arizona with grades that range from 5.7 to 5.13+.

Climbing at Volunteer Canyon and Paradise Forks began in the middle 1970's with true ground up endeavors usually involving splitter hand and fist cracks. Paradise Forks stole the spolight due to the long alluring splitters and easy year round access. Many of the classic lines were done on passive gear and maybe an occasional pin. The first ascents of these routes were truly inspired outings when you think about the steep cracks which make the Fork’s such a treasure.

The White Narwhal. Photo: B.McCord

Paradise Forks has matured and filled out with a ton of classics over the last four decades. Generations of bold climbers have come and gone, and every one has left a history of hard, spicy climbing. The Forks is known for down home crack jamming and for the thinner, technical routes which often come with heart racing ratings. This is a crag where you can get your first taste of "5.9 Hands" or find a head point project to up your ante.

Volunteer Canyon has a big feel to it and is somewhat wild when compared to The Forks. Many of the lines done here in the 1970's and modern day classics alike, require rapping into very specific belays due to the architecture of the walls and lines. One way or the other, you gotta climb out. Whether that's climbing the route, or jugging up your rap line in defeat. However, the jagged, hypnotizing geologic geometry of the canyon is both undeniable and breathtaking. The best lines are long, striking, and steep. 

Getting There Suggest change

Follow directions for the individual crags.

278 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Sycamore Canyon Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Sycamore Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 94
The Black Rose
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 221
Mayflower
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 53
Aqualung
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 73
Raindance
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 130
East of Eden
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 61
A Rusted Rapture
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 118
Torpedo
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 184
The Prow
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 47
Gold Finger
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 40
Phantasm
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 58
Three Turkeys
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 122
Davidson Dihedral
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 53
Mutiny on the Bounty
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 57
Paradise Lost
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 33
Shotgun
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Black Rose Paradise Forks > Obsidian Wall
 94
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mayflower Paradise Forks > Prow
 221
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Aqualung Paradise Forks > Jungle Wall
 53
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Raindance Paradise Forks > Raindance Buttress
 73
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
East of Eden Paradise Forks > Gold Wall
 130
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
A Rusted Rapture Volunteer Canyo… > S Side > 2. E End Wall
 61
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Torpedo Paradise Forks > Davidson Wall
 118
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The Prow Paradise Forks > Prow
 184
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Gold Finger Paradise Forks > Gold Wall
 47
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Phantasm Volunteer Canyo… > S Side > 7. W End Wall
 40
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Three Turkeys Paradise Forks > Davidson Wall
 58
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Davidson Dihedral Paradise Forks > Pillow Wall
 122
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Mutiny on the Bounty Paradise Forks > Prow
 53
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Paradise Lost Paradise Forks > Davidson Wall
 57
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
Shotgun Paradise Forks > Prow
 33
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sycamore Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments