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Sycamore Canyon

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Paradise Forks 
Tule Tank Wash 
Volunteer Canyon 
Whitetail Canyon 

Sycamore Canyon Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 35.10003, -111.9655 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 56,817
Administrators: Greg Opland, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jan 24, 2012


77° | 43°

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68° | 43°

69° | 41°
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J.Snyder on final boulder problem on FA of Jangala


Sycamore Canyon is a massive Mogollon Rim drainage tucked away in a thick Ponderosa pine forest, just south of Garland Prairie. Timeless crags such as Paradise Forks, Volunteer Canyon, "The land of a thousand climbs" Sycamore Point, and a newer addition, Whitetail Canyon, are all found on the rim of Sycamore Canyon. These columnar basalt canyons are home to some of the best hard rock crack climbing in Arizona.

Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the end of crux #1 on my first lead attemp...
Nearing the end of crux #1 on my first lead attempt. Volunteer Canyon.
Wade Forrest photo

Climbing at Volunteer Canyon and Paradise Forks began in the middle 1970's with true ground up endeavors. However, Paradise Forks stole the spolight due to the long alluring crack climbs, and all around easy, year round access. Many of the classic lines were done on passive gear, and maybe an occasional pin. The first ascents of these routes were truly inspired outings, when you think about the parallel sided cracks which make the Forks such a treasure.

Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Zeiger-Haag on Bladerunner, Paradise Forks
Ben Zeiger-Haag on Bladerunner, Paradise Forks

Getting There 

Follow directions for the individual crags.

Climbing Season

Weather station 14.1 miles from here

191 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',29],['3 Stars',110],['2 Stars',38],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sycamore Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sycamore Canyon:
The Black Rose   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 70'   Paradise Forks : The Obsidian Wall
Mayflower   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Paradise Forks : The Prow
Fool's Game   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Paradise Forks : The Prow
Lost Highway   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 130'   North Side : Tralfamadore Buttress
Jolly Roger   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Paradise Forks : The Prow
East Of Eden   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall
Raindance   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Paradise Forks : Raindance Buttress
Loose Lips   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall
Torpedo   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall
The Prow   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   Paradise Forks : The Prow
Sindarete   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 125'   South Side : Memorial Wall
Phantasm   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   South Side : West End Wall
Gold Finger   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall
Three Turkeys   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall
Davidson Dihedral   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall
Mutiny on the Bounty   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Paradise Forks : The Prow
Paradise Lost   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall
Nyctophiliac    5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   South Side : West End Wall
Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid Test Crack   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall
The Equalizer   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sycamore Canyon

Featured Route For Sycamore Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa looking for the jug above the roof about 25' ...

Panza Roja 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13  AZ : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall
This is an interesting, engaging route and unusual climbing for the Forks. It's almost entirely face with thin, but adequate protection. Manuel Rangel found, cleaned, TR'd and equipped this pitch. A safe lead would not of been possible without his efforts. Hats off to Manny for finding this quality route which had been overlooked for so long. The climbing is challenging and enjoyable. Their are some loose flakes about 30 ft up but it's easy at that point. The upper face is a little licheny but s...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

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