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Williams/ Sycamore Canyon Areas

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Bill Williams Mountain 
Paradise Forks 
Volunteer Canyon 

Williams/ Sycamore Canyon Areas  


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Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 35.2515, -112.1902 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 209,041
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jan 24, 2012
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Colin Cox on the FA, in warm conditions.

Description 

The greater Williams area has some fine climbing indeed. Both Paradise Forks and Volunteer Canyon are found in the sprawling forests south of Garland Prairie, on the rim of Sycamore Canyon. These columnar basalt canyons are home to some of the best crack climbing in Arizona.

Bill Williams Mt. is home to The Balls, an old school Bob Murray bouldering area, as well as some newer sport attractions. Don't miss out on Bill Williams Spire, AKA Finger Rock if you are in the mood for a small adventure. The Center Pinche Area is also found out here, as well as the land of a thousand climbs, Sycamore Point.

Getting There 

Follow directions for the individual crags.

Climbing Season


136 Total Routes

['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',82],['2 Stars',32],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',8],['5.9',26],['5.10',36],['5.11',36],['5.12',25],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Williams/ Sycamore Canyon Areas:
The Black Rose   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 70'   Paradise Forks : The Obsidian Wall
Fool's Game   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Paradise Forks : The Prow
Mayflower   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Paradise Forks : The Prow
Raindance   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Paradise Forks : Raindance Buttress
Rapture   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   South Side : East End Wall
Jolly Roger   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Paradise Forks : The Prow
East Of Eden   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall
Torpedo   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall
Loose Lips   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall
The Prow   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   Paradise Forks : The Prow
LMA    5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Paradise Forks : The Sine Wall
Gold Finger   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad   Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall
Three Turkeys   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall
Mutiny on the Bounty   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Paradise Forks : The Prow
Davidson Dihedral   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall
Phantasm   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   South Side : West End Wall
Hocus Focus   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 65'   Paradise Forks : The White Wall
Paradise Lost   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall
Nyctophiliac    5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   South Side : West End Wall
Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid Test Crack   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall
Browse More Classics in Williams/ Sycamore Canyon Areas

Featured Route For Williams/ Sycamore Canyon Areas
Running a lap on Acid Test.  <br />Photo Wade Forrest

Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid Test Crack 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13  AZ : Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall
Acid Test Crack or Ice Cream Dreams... Know it as either, but love it all the same. This route was listed as Acid Test Crack in Tim Toula's historic, A Cheap Way To Fly, and many locals refer to it as such, with all do respect to Heinz. Definitely one the best sections of 5.12 fingers at the Forks!Start out by bouldering fractured rock on thin holds to gain the crack proper. This section is a bit touch and go, and many preplace a cam above this section on rappel to protect it, however, many do...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

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