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Submitted By: Orphaned on Dec 12, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Willard Canyon, with the waterfall in the shade to...


This area as a whole lies directly above the town of Willard. This also is the heavily used Willard Bay area. Its about 5-7 minutes north of Odgen. There are supposidly three ice routes, a spire, and a newer face. Turn up Willard canyon road to access most of the climbing. This is the dirt road next to Willard cemetery. When you arrive at the fork in the road, take the right. Drive to a parking lot on the left. This lot is before an entrance to a gravel pit. Walk/hike northeast from this parking lot. Cross the stream then gain the dirt road higher on the north side of the canyon. Follow this road then find your way to the bottom. The ice is easily visible from the main road in Willard as are most of the crags. If you can't see anything, you probably shouldn't hike axes and screws, ropes or cams up there.

Approach takes around an hour or less depending on your condition. Descend by hiking straight north on top of the cliffband. Look for a trail that was forged in the cliffband and switchbacks to your backpacks and dogs. The routes are worth the effort.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.9 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Willard:
Willard Canyon Waterfall   WI3     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 800'   
Southwest Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'   
Ad Astra Per Aspera   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   
Browse More Classics in Willard

Featured Route For Willard
Dave on Willard Canyon Waterfall's first steep bit...

Willard Canyon Waterfall WI3  UT : Wasatch Range : Willard
A neat ramble up a sometimes very narrow ribbon of ice.Scramble up to base of ice fall, and, climb up lower angle ice. After a couple of pitches, a couple of steeper sections provide some fun climbing.The main gully continues up for quite a ways above the steeper sections, but, it becomes a bit low angle and less than interesting.Great to do this in low snow conditions, when there's pure ice and no snow nearby....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 3, 2006
There are also many "adventure" routes located in Willard Canyon. In most cases, the rock is not as chossy as it looks. Almost a lifetime of climbs can be done; most, of which, are multi-pitch. Nearly everthing about the Willard area is as "traditional" as it gets. One has to have good route finding skills. There are almost no bolts here! Protection consists of linking seams and horizontal cracks together. It is almost impossible to describe the location of any routes that may have been done. Have fun and explore. You just may do a first ascent of a route that no one will ever hear about or find - or at least the first ascent in years anyway. Be adventureous!
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