Will-Mento  5.10+

766 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet FA:  Unknown Party, 5/2004 Submitted By:  Tony B on Apr 18, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Chris Parks follows the clean corner on 'Wil-Mento...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>> Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

To find this route continue left on Resevior Wall past the Pente area perhaps 150 meters to a route facing right in some semi-parallel cracks (Skank on the Hanglow, a new route with a slate at the bottom). Continue past this perhaps another 100 meters to a MASSIVE left facing corner with a off-hands to off-fists crack in it. It is characterized by three small roofs in the corner and a slate with the name, grade, & date placed in a horizontal, 2 meters up the climb.Go up the runout start (5.8+ stemming) to reach 20M of perfect hand-jams, then continue up the widening crack past 3 rooves, each bumping the leader to the left slightly.

This is a good route, but needs a little more traffic to be great. The rock is solid, the line good, the moves great, adn the anchors trustworthy, However, under the first two roofs, there is some accumulation of dust that is not yet well cleaned off. My partner did some hand-brushing, but the route needs more, and we had no cloth or brush to dust it off with.

Protection 

A run of cams from 2.5+ inches to 3.5 inches- heavy on the 3" and 3.5"