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Chris Parks follows the clean corner on 'Wil-Mento...
|Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>
To find this route continue left on Resevior Wall past the Pente area perhaps 150 meters to a route facing right in some semi-parallel cracks (Skank on the Hanglow, a new route with a slate at the bottom). Continue past this perhaps another 100 meters to a MASSIVE left facing corner with a off-hands to off-fists crack in it. It is characterized by three small roofs in the corner and a slate with the name, grade, & date placed in a horizontal, 2 meters up the climb.Go up the runout start (5.8+ stemming) to reach 20M of perfect hand-jams, then continue up the widening crack past 3 rooves, each bumping the leader to the left slightly.
This is a good route, but needs a little more traffic to be great. The rock is solid, the line good, the moves great, adn the anchors trustworthy, However, under the first two roofs, there is some accumulation of dust that is not yet well cleaned off. My partner did some hand-brushing, but the route needs more, and we had no cloth or brush to dust it off with.
A run of cams from 2.5+ inches to 3.5 inches- heavy on the 3" and 3.5"
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
May 15, 2008
When I did this route I was able to get a sliding nut/Lowe Ball into the bottom section to protect the thin crack.
From: moab, utah
Sep 28, 2011
It's been six years since this climb was added, I climbed it yesterday and it was still filthy. Either no one climbs it or it's in a water chute. Too bad because it's a pretty fun route.
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Apr 16, 2012
I also climbed this thing last fall and it was way dirty
But quality big hands for sure