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Dali Dome
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Wilkinson Sword 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 195'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ross Hardwick & Scott Baxter spring 1976
Season: dry and not too hot
Page Views: 788
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Dec 27, 2010

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Looking down on pitch 2 of Wilkinson Sword

Description 

An amazing line ascending a creaky flake crack system. Improbably thin flake, dubious pro at a modest grade: fantastic and a bit frightening.

P1: ascend the low angle corner, then, transition to a crack on the right, then another, gaining the two bolt belay anchor at the base of the steep flake. 5.4 70’.

P2: Climb the thin flake feature. Two bolts protect at stances (old Rawl buttonheads with thin SMC hangers in need of replacement). Move up, then right, then up and finally turn the low angle roof and gain the two bolt rappel anchor (with a spare older belay bolt). 5.7 125’.

Either rappel the route, or, continue to the top via the low angle crack (150 feet, easy 5th class).

If rappelling, fixed anchor available at the end of P1 and P2. Take care with the rope to avoid getting it stuck in the crack. Near the top of the last pitch, not far from the summit, there's a large flake which would require leaving a large cordellete (or similar) for a rappel anchor, if needed.

Walk off behind the Dome and back around to the climber’s left.

Take care on the fragile flexi flake. Amazing feature but, who knows for how much longer?

The route name must be in reference to the maker of razor blades...

Location 

Located on the right side of the east face of Dali Dome.

Approach as for the main east face of Dali Dome, then, scramble up through the boulders to the base of the route.

Start just left of the tree at the base of the right facing corner.

Either rappel the route from the top of the second pitch (two ropes) or, climb the low angle crack to the top of the dome and walk/scramble down to the climber's left.

From the summit of Dali Dome, descend by zig zagging down weaknesses to the Dali-esque water grooved plateau below, staying kind of towards the edge of the abyss near the top, then walking down the low angle slab past a couple of neat dike features. Follow the drainage down, through large boulders and lovely spikey foliage, to the base of the dome and the approach hike trail/road.

Suggest either leaving a pack near the bottom of the hike (prior to scrambling up to the base of the route) or, carrying all gear up the route if the intent is to top out the dome, to avoid having to scramble up to the base of the route again.

Protection 

Gear to include at least a double set of cams in the .5 to 3 camalot (or equivalent) range. A pair of #4 camalots would not go unused. Single cams in the .3 to .4 camalot (or equivalent) range. Set of large nuts.

Fixed belay/rappel stations for the first two pitches.

Note: the two protection bolts on the route are old Rawl buttonheads with thin SMC hangers. Dubious at best, but, useful for keeping the lead rope out of the crack.


Photos of Wilkinson Sword Slideshow Add Photo
Wilkinson Sword follows the jagged crack system in the middle of this view.
BETA PHOTO: Wilkinson Sword follows the jagged crack system in...
Wilkinson Sword first pitch
Wilkinson Sword first pitch
Heading to the pitch 2 anchor on Wilkinson Sword
Heading to the pitch 2 anchor on Wilkinson Sword

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By Brian in SLC
Dec 27, 2010

CONDITION REPORT 
Stuck rope on the second pitch of this route on 26 December 2010. Its a 70m Mammut, and, the rope is stuck behind the flake at the horizontal break just before the finish out the low angle roof.

Update 1/1/11: rope still there. Made an attempt to free it. Cold conditions, some snow and ice.