Wildest Dreams  5.12

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  Chris Hensen, et al '06 Submitted By:  Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

P1 (5.10): Start as for Golden Road or climb the flake more easily from the left. 6 or so bolts lead up a face to the right of Golden Road to a left facing corner. Stem and jam the corner past thin gear to a belay anchor on a ledge on the right.

P2 (5.11): Corner and face climbing past bolts and some gear leads to another comfortable belay stance.

P3 (5.12): A couple of bolts protect the beginning of a very thin crack. Tiny cams (00 TCU, 0 C3, black and blue aliens) to finger size pieces protect the rest. At only 40 feet, this pitch is certainly sustained at the grade. Belay on a large ledge that forms part of the descent and traverse pitches on the original Davis-Holland route.

P4 (5.10): At 30m+, be sure you're using a 70m rope or double 60m ropes! Bolts protect face moves that lead to sustained, thought-provoking climbing in discontinuous cracks. Care should be taken at the very top as there may be a couple of loose blocks. They do not, however, detract much from the quality of this pitch.

Location 

Starts in the same area as Golden Route via a two bolt slab or a 3rd/4th class flake traverse.

A single 70m will work for the whole climb and the descent. The final pitch really is close to 35m so be careful when lowering the leader and be sure your rope is indeed 70m.

Protection 

Bolts; nuts and cams from very tiny to #3 Camalot size with emphasis on the tiny.

Anchors are all fixed and equipped with rappel hardware.