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Eric Hirst near the end of p4 on Wildest Dreams.
P1 (5.10): Start as for Golden Road or climb the flake more easily from the left. 6 or so bolts lead up a face to the right of Golden Road to a left facing corner (9+). Stem and jam the corner past thin gear (10+) at the top to a belay anchor on a ledge on the right.
P2 (5.11): A flake goes up left to a fin/shallow corner. Use some small cams and nuts between bolts 1 and 2. After about 4-5 more bolts, the fin ends and you face a thin seam/face-climbing crux. A few more face moves (protected by medium-sized gear) lead to a 5.10 mantel and comfy belay ledge.
P3 (5.12 or A1): Two bolts protect the beginning of a right-leaning, thin fingers/fingertip crack. Tiny cams (0,00 TCU, 0 C3, black and blue aliens) to finger size pieces protect the rest. At only 40 feet, this pitch is certainly sustained at the grade. Belay on a large ledge that forms part of the descent and traverse pitches on the original Davis-Holland route.
Many parties aid this pitch (A1). Special aid gear not needed -- you can just use a sling to stand up in -- and because it is short, just using a sling doesn't take long.
P4 (5.10): Two bolts protect face moves that lead to sustained, thought-provoking climbing in discontinuous cracks. The pitch is nearly 35 m, so if you want to lower off the chains or rap, make sure you have a 70-m rope (or a second rope).
A short face traverse and 4th-class climbing leads up to the top of the wall where you can quickly get to the trail.
Starts in the same area as Golden Route via a two bolt slab or a 3rd/4th class flake traverse.
A single 70m will work for the whole climb and the descent. The final pitch really is close to 35m so be careful when lowering the leader and be sure your rope is indeed 70m.
Bolts, up to 7 on a pitch. A few 2-3" cams plus several tiny nuts and cams for p1. A few small pieces and up to 2" cams for p2. Many finger-tip to finger-sized cams for p3. About three 2-2.5" cams, one 3" cam, and many small nuts and cams for p4.
Anchors are all fixed and equipped with rappel hardware.
Eric Hirst at the start of p2 Wildest Dreams.
Eric at the finishing jug on the long, sustained 4...
Near the top of p1 of Wildest Dreams.
Looking up at p4 of Wildest Dreams. The route foll...
Eric Hirst after the crux on p2 of Wildest Dreams.
On the crux 5.12 crack on Wildest Dreams.
By Jon Nelson
Oct 21, 2013
Best UTW route I've done yet.
Parties often aid the third pitch to get to the ultra-classic 4th, but it is certainly worth it to do just the first one or two pitches.
You do not need a 70-m rope if you hike off, which is easy to do. From the end of the 4th pitch, the climbing to the top is relatively clean, solid, and easy.
By Eric Hirst
Oct 21, 2013
Our 68m rope would not have been long enough to rap or lower from the 4th pitch, although a full 70m rope would have been just enough. I used Chris' old fixed rope as a handline to lead through to the forest above. We removed Chris' rope, but the mossy/chossy top-out pitch should still be mostly pretty easy 4th class climbing, as long as it's dry.
Specifics on the thin gear:
- A #2 (red) LoweBall/Camp Ballnut is very nice for the crux of p1.
- 3-4 #0 (purple) Metolius for aiding p3, or a mix of #0 (purple) and #00 (gray) if you are going to try to free p3.
Best UTW route I've done yet as well. Possibly my favorite route at Index now.