Wilder Kaiser Rock Climbing
looking east from the E Ridge of Ellmauer Halt
Wilder Kaiser is a spectacular and easily accessible range in the Austrian Tyrol region. The rock is limestone and varies in quality from solid to disintegrating crap. As with many Europe ranges, the area is served by an extensive hut system, as well as a number of hotels. The range is host to a large number of climbs in addition to hikes and via ferrata routes. The area hosts everything from moderate ridge traverses to steep, technical bolted face routes.
There is an excellent summitpost page
with geology and photos managed by a team of local climbers. They are great resources. Although it's a MTB video (Hintere Goinger Halt descent), this provides a good feel for the area. References
There are several published topo maps on the area. The water/tear-proof one (Wander, Rad- und MTB-Karte 451, 1:25000) I picked up at the visitor center in Going was half the price of the others and had just as much detail.
There are also climbing topos/beta available for free online for the more popular moderate routes, but they are almost all in German. Google translation is comical ("chimney" translates to "fireplace"), but will probably get you by.
Mark Stadler published a comprehensive (German) guide to the guide
and also runs a detailed website
Most of the small towns have grocery stores, which are closed on Sundays. Expect to pay to park if you shortcut the long slog up the road and park at the popular Wochenbrunn Alm trailhead. It was 4 when I was there in Oct 2013. At this time the Gruttenhütte was only open on weekend afternoons for beer and sausages, but I suspect that varies depending on the weather conditions.
If you go in the non-peak season (I was there in mid-October) the local sports shops will likely have packed away their climbing inventory. You'll need to go to one of the cities for gear purchases.
Hut search page is here
(Click on the southern Tirol region, then Kaisergebirge area). I did not check out the local camping options, but there is at least one campground in the area.
The area is easily accessible from Munich, Munich, Salzburg and Innsbruck with the nearest smaller towns being Ellmau, Going, Sheffau and Soell.
Approaches are generally short, with signs, cairns and painted dots on the more traveled routes.
Weather station 7.2 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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view east toward Törlspitze
Wilder Kaiser from Ellmau
Gruttenhütte, the highest hut in the range
one of the local food scavengers
notch on the Jubiläumssteig via feratta
looking toward the valley with Gaudeamushütte
SAR ready for a busy weekend on the via ferrata or...
some very nice Bavarians (Bernardo and Josh) I met...
some random ridge I soloed from Ellmauer Tor (ther...
view from the Hintere Goinger Halt summit
the Bavarians goofing off on the Jubiläumssteig v...
one of the many memorials to fallen climbers