Wildcat  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  D Brayshaw S Neufeld June 16, 2011 New Route:  Yes Season:  most of the year Submitted By:  Dru on Jun 16, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The route before the FA in the cleaning stage.

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Description 

Layback the wide flake crack to a pinnacle. Move right past the first bolt (tricky boulder move, probably harder than 5.8 but right at the bolt) on pockets and edge to a right facing flake. Up this and the curving crack above to ledge. Pull flake through the overhang then climb featured slab past more bolts to the station, which is just above the belay tree for Wayback Layback, Crack of Dawn and Sliver and can be used to set a TR on these climbs.

Named after a bobcat that was prowling around the base.

From the bolted belay, a second pitch (30m, ~5.7) continues up the low angle stepped arete to the ledge below Bigfoot. Two bolts plus several pieces of finger sized gear.

Location 

When walking the trail east to Sharktooth Flake etc. from the Sleeping Princess area this climb is obvious on the left. scramble up a short trail to the base.

From the belay atop the first pitch, rappel (don't lower, see note) or climb the second pitch and then walk off. Note you can rappel from the first station with a 60m rope but to lower you need a 70m. If lowering with a 60m you can only get to the pinnacle 5m off the ground and may have to downclimb from there. The second pitch anchor is bolts only, not a rappel chain. It is exactly 60m from the upper anchor to the base, but it's hard to climb the combined route in one linked pitch with a 60m rope because with all the pro placed the line of the climb angled and so more like 70m than 60m.

• *Don't let your belayer drop you by running the end of the rope through their device while lowering with a 60m.***

Protection 

First pitch: Four bolts and three or four cams 1/2" to 2". Rappel anchors on top (rap rings).
Second pitch: two bolts and several finger-sized nuts or cams. Bolted anchor on top.