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Asshole Rock
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Cardiac Crack T 
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Wild West Show 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Hubbel, Sharon Murra, Jon Hall 87
Page Views: 134
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Oct 1, 2013

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Looking up toward the start.

Description 

This starts on the left of two really inviting dihedrals. The right one is Psycho Killer 11c.

P1) 5.9, 90 feet
The crux comes near the top of the dihedral where the crack is flared a little, but the gear is great. Step right to a bolt anchor.

The old guide book shows Wild West Show going left, but the new book says straight up. Straight up keeps things mellow.

P2) 5.8, 130 feet
From the ledge above the belay you have to step across to a slab in a chimney to squeeze past a bush. If you survive the giant bush, you end up in a pod. One steep move gains a great hand crack in a low angle corner. You can bump a #3 up the whole way. Unfortunately the corner isn't that long and you end up in another sort of pod that is capped by lots of vegetation. Stem up and exit left onto a slab. I headed up left to a left facing corner in the final head wall for one last 5.7 move before reaching the top.

Location 

If you can figure out the approach to the crag, you can find this route. It's on the right side of the NE face. You can see the beautiful dihedral when you first catch a view of the cliff.

If you walk straight across the summit you can scramble down behind a flake and end up at the base of Mister Sol. Not really sure what the best way back to the base of the route is?

Protection 

A standard rack is fine. You could place a #4, but you don't need it. A #3 is nice to have maybe even 2 of em...


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Wild West Show.
BETA PHOTO: Wild West Show.

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