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Wild West Homo T,TR 

Wild West Homo 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: First Lead: Dave Groth, 1987
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 3,444
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Devils Lake. Isaac Therneau on Wild West Homo on a...

Description 

Wild West Homo sits high atop the West Bluff, and overlooks everything from its poignant perch. This slightly overhanging line is not your typical DL 5.11-, and is an excellent, though short lead for the grade. However the spice is real deal, and committing to some of the more bouldery moves may make you sweat a little. Luckily the holds are surprisingly good, and the sequences are fairly straight forward.





Location 

Prospect Point


Photos of Wild West Homo Slideshow Add Photo
Ted Kryzer on WWH in the approaching storm. 07/25/...
Ted Kryzer on WWH in the approaching storm. 07/25/...
Wild West Homo at Devils Lake. Darin L. at the cru...
Wild West Homo at Devils Lake. Darin L. at the cru...
Wild West Homo. Darin L.
Wild West Homo. Darin L.
Fall view of Wild West Homo with Chris Eggert on i...
Fall view of Wild West Homo with Chris Eggert on i...
Stewart   photo by Jim
Stewart photo by Jim
Wild West Homo, July 13 '08. Photo Isaac Therneau.
Wild West Homo, July 13 '08. Photo Isaac Therneau.
Wild West Homo, the run-out section. Photo Isaac T...
Wild West Homo, the run-out section. Photo Isaac T...
Devils Lake. Wild West Homo. Climber: Isaac Therne...
Devils Lake. Wild West Homo. Climber: Isaac Therne...
Wild West Homo at Devils Lake. Darin L.
Wild West Homo at Devils Lake. Darin L.
Devils Lake. Wild West Homo -- starting moves. It'...
Devils Lake. Wild West Homo -- starting moves. It'...
Stewart   photo by Jim
Stewart photo by Jim
Stewart  Photo by Jim
Stewart Photo by Jim
WWH.  Climber: Isaac Therneau
WWH. Climber: Isaac Therneau

Comments on Wild West Homo Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 15, 2012
By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
Oct 25, 2006

FA lead & TR by Dave Groth in 87. Good gear but run out at the top.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

I guess I would give it an "R" due to injury potential. Slipping and falling from the difficult opening moves could be nasty. And if you cut near the exit of the climb, you'll likely deck on the ledge unless the belayer takes up bunch of slack. Otherwise really great route with bouldery moves throughout. The crux is well protected.
By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Oct 12, 2009

what gear did you guys use to lead this?
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

Paul, IIRC grey alien first, green nut in crack about 10 feet up, and #3 BD camalot equalized with a superlight rock in the horizontal (or 2 #3's), but you should rap in and tinker with what works off your rack before taking anyone's word for it. The early placements are finnicky as I recall. I am told that this climb has seen deckage so make sure the placements are good. Protect your belayer as well with a small cam in the crack at chest height on the starting block as well. Go for it!
By Tradoholic
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

The gear to start was poor, I think a small brassie, then a good nut in the vertical seam, a couple of great cams in the horizontal and run out to the top. This starts on a pedestal and a fall at the start could be disastrous, maybe anchor the belayor? Bring everything you got and put in as much as possible.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 1, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

You can get a good nut, or really small cam in a thin seam to work as a directional, and protect the start. Heads up at the top, it's a big run-out!
By Tradoholic
Aug 1, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Yay! Remo, are you getting into the business routes?!!!? What's next?
By Ted Kryzer
From: Rochester, MN
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

I do believe this route deserves a R/X rating. when i first tried this route on lead I decked (with some rope stretch) from the horizontal. The gear blew and the nut in the small vertical seam some how held. If it wasn't for my belayer Fred I very easily could have broken many bones and slid into the large crack at the base. The picture above is a half second before the fall.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 14, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

Out of curiosity Ted, what gear blew?

My gear in the horizontal seemed bomber, but I was glad to not test it. I was a lot more worried about blowing a move before I had gear in the horizontal.
By Ted Kryzer
From: Rochester, MN
Aug 14, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

I never got the chance to place in the horizontal. It was a small cam between the nut and the horizontal. I don't remember the size but it seemed okay. I blew going to the horizontal, worst possible place to fall.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 14, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

Ah. I misunderstood. Yeah I can see that happening. Glad no harm done.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Aug 15, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

I tried looking up how "PG 13" vs "R" is defined. I found this: "PG13 OK protection, falls may be long but will probably not cause serious injury", "R Runout, some protection placements may be very far apart (possibility of broken bones, even when properly protected)".
Not trying to split hairs here but long fall on Wild West Homo most likely means hitting the ledge, even if gear holds. Regardless of the consensus.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 15, 2012

Well heck.... if there is any concern by anyone that a lead climb should be rated with an R to denote seriousness.... it should rated with an R... much better to err on the safe side.. Ratings are guides for future aspiring climbers/leaders... In the case of WWH I agree with Kris... the ledge the climb starts off of (and the gaping hole between the ledge and the wall) are an undeniable hazard on this climb good pro or not...