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> A. Ribbon Falls…
> 2. Audubon Buttress
Wild Turkey
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
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| Type: | Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Dale Bard and Ron Kauk, 1974 |
| Page Views: | 1,604 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Christina Freschl on Mar 1, 2016 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The route begins with a short approach pitch. It begins in a dihedral up about 40ft of decent rock. After a few offwidth moves, step right and up a jagged hand crack to gain the good ledge. This puts you at the base of the left-curving #5 sized beauty that is the essence of the climb.
The next 80 or so feet are glorious offwidth climbing. Hand fist stacks and physical arm barring will help you gain ground. Two small bulges will present some interesting "cruxes", but these are over quickly and it is really just a practice in persistence. There are several well-earned rests on the climb.
You pull out of the crack onto a small sloping ledge. There is a nice horizontal crack to place mid-range cams for an anchor. There are no bolts. To descend we climbed another pitch, which is pretty awful to be honest. Although the climbing was easy, the protection was questionable and the grunge was in abundance. We were able to rap off a tree to the ground with 2 ropes.
The next 80 or so feet are glorious offwidth climbing. Hand fist stacks and physical arm barring will help you gain ground. Two small bulges will present some interesting "cruxes", but these are over quickly and it is really just a practice in persistence. There are several well-earned rests on the climb.
You pull out of the crack onto a small sloping ledge. There is a nice horizontal crack to place mid-range cams for an anchor. There are no bolts. To descend we climbed another pitch, which is pretty awful to be honest. Although the climbing was easy, the protection was questionable and the grunge was in abundance. We were able to rap off a tree to the ground with 2 ropes.
Location
Located left and up hill from Duncan Imperial (5.11) and The Dove (5.8) Hard to see the crack of the second pitch from the base, but just walk up hill a bit more and it will reveal itself to you.
We were able to rap off a tree to the ground with 2 70m ropes.
A few bolts at the top of the 5-inch crack would make this route much more enjoyable.
We were able to rap off a tree to the ground with 2 70m ropes.
A few bolts at the top of the 5-inch crack would make this route much more enjoyable.
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