|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 200'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Greg Cameron, George Manson, 1979.|
|Submitted By:||Scott W on Jun 15, 2011|
|Comments on Wild Turkey||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Jul 18, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
|It was a good pitch. Use a variety of techniques to nke your way up, tons of good gear as has been said. I would not want to do it with a single rack though, unless you are really, really good with nuts. For sure not 5.12. The first 2 pitches suck.|
By Greg Cameron
Apr 26, 2016
|So, I did the first ascent of this in 1979. I thought I had rated it 5.10c but I could be wrong.|
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 17, 2016
Pitch 1) 5.9 traverse from Turkey ledge at north end of the Bullet, step down to bolted anchor right of Eurasian Eyes. Small trees, hand traverse sloping holds, placing pro for your follower. It is tempting to clip the bolts that start climbs along this traverse, but it is hard and scary for the follower to unclip them.
Pass bolted anchor at base of Fight Club and head up onto ledges to pedestal behind cedar tree.This is really hard for 5.9.
Pitch 2 ) first ascent calls this 10b, we thought it was more like 10a. VERY DIRTY. A off width slot leads into good fist to hands to fingers, ramps up right to base of the obvious arching final pitch with a bolted anchor.
Pitch 3 ) fingers layback leads to hand crack with a rotten stump guarding the long groove arching left ward above. Very dirty, I tried to scrape out some dirt at the start, it cleans up as you go.There are many smaller cam options where it gets big, but larger cams are optional- like a #5.
There are 3 finish options, left out onto face is R rated, Center is 11c, Right is top out of Turkey Shoot about 11a.
The first ascent team graded this 10d ( at least that is what it is in the Campbell 1985 book), McLane and Bourdon grade it 11a, which seems more like it to me.
start near Eurasian Eyes. Either rap route with double rope, hike off south to Mañana wall descent, or rap back into South/south gully (2-3 single rope raps back to Turkey ledge, or rap down north end of the Bullet above Eurasian Eyes to anchor of Ren with single rope.
Double rack to #4 Camalot. bolted anchor up top with sling.But if you are thinking of rapping I think it is better to rap off the top of the Bullet, 2 single rope raps back to ledge where Eurasian Eyes starts, then 2) double rope raps back to ground ( single rope raps ok, plan to have slings) or rap into SS Guly.