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Sigma Wall
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Nakoma (formerly The Niche) S 
Nexus S 
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Wild Things T 

Wild Things 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Season: Fall
Page Views: 1,758
Submitted By: Shawn P. Tracy on Nov 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

Route immediatley right of Sigma. Follow right facing accute corner to roof. Pull through inobvious moves to somewhat runout section to top. Anchors on left wall or top out. Solid 9-10 trad-leaders will enjoy this--others may not.

Location 

Sigma Wall

Protection 

Small trad rack from medium nuts and small cams to a couple mid-range cams.


Comments on Wild Things Add Comment
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By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a really fun climb. It is a very solid, sustained, and committing lead if you're near the 5.9 leading level.

There's tons of options for gear for the first 2/3 of the climb, but how solid are those flakes?!?!? I was happy I didn't fall to find out!

A #3 camalot is nice, and I liked having my #4 after pulling the roof, but I'm sure you'd be fine with BD singles to #3 and a couple medium/large nuts (BD #8 or 9 or something like that)
By Dreez
May 28, 2012

While one of the best 5.9's trads in the state (big holds, overhang, good gear) - it is a death route. Do not put cams on the flake on the right or you will have most the climb fall down on you. The huge flake moves if you put a cam in it, and it holds up the rest of the climb. I am hoping the originals would mark it or annotate the description.

I used 2 #4's, one to start and one once over the overhang. Also a #2 past the second overhang. Needs slings for the overhang.
By Lspade
From: Chaska, MN
Jun 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

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--DO NOT USE THE RIGHT CRACK AT THE START FOR GEAR--

-

This has been stated before but I wanted to emphasise it. There is a big block to the right of the rightward facing flake/chimney that sits about 5 feet off the ground and is about 10 feet high. Placing a cam behind this is tempting but if you give the cam a pull you can see the entire block of rock move. Both my partner and I felt it was safe to stand on this block but if a cam wedged it off the wall the route would be a lot harder.

Oh, and I beg everyone not to bolt this route!!! Please!? This is a very unique climb (a well protected roof route that isn't rated super hard) and will surely become a classic at Sandstone!