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Begin climbing just left of the old stone water fountain. Clip shiny bolts leading to the crack and mantle at the end.
This line was originally established by Bobby Model in the early nineties. I asked Bobby years ago if we could split it into two routes since the bolts didn't really protect the finish very well and people generally escaped to the right after falling repeatedly trying to do the mantle on the left. The runout on the right exit was scary but easy and the falls mantling the looseness on the left produced crazy swinging whippers. Bobby grumbled a bit at the suggestion, but agreed that two separate routes might be a better idea. Sadly Bobby left us before we could make that happen.
Bryant Hall and I returned recently to make the split and update the aging hardware. We found that the original line crossed some dangerously hollow blocks and the rock on either side was solid, thus making more sense to abandon the the original beginning. There are now two great lines on either side leading up into each of the finishes as their own routes. In addition we installed two separate anchors lower down so as to eliminate the rope drag over the ledge and through the dirt at the top.
On the Tunnel Wall between Rub the Nub and Mild Thing.
6 clips, chain anchor