Wild River Crag Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 1,641 ft |
GPS: |
44.28703, -71.05746 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 25,903 total · 127/month |
Shared By: | Ladd Raine on Jun 5, 2007 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
June 1 2023 Note- See Comment posted May 30, 2023. Access road was wash out and is closed, probable to at least mid-month.
Wilderness Area - The Wild River Wilderness area was created in 2006. The bolted lines on this crag were developed before that date ( even Independence seems to have been bolted prior to the 2010 FA) Currently new fixed anchors / protection are to be avoided.
The name of this crag does a pretty good job at hinting to what you'll find here.... 140ft+ of beautiful granite in a wonderful wilderness setting, filled with proud lines; incredible aretes, amazing faces, and awesome corners.
Wild River Crag can be found Northeast of the Presidentials and North Conway. The only road to this crag (Wild River Road, off of Rt113 ) is closed when snow makes it impassable and therefore climbing here is a summer/fall affair. East exposure makes for enjoyable morning climbing in the fall and a chilly afternoon. Get to the crag early to avoid the very cold temp later on in the climbing season. In the Summer the eastern exposure is perfect for those hot humid days.
Climbing started at this crag in the '70s then took off with bolted lines in the early '90s. The result is a variety of styles for anybody to enjoy. It has bolted lines, long trad pitches and absolutely no crowds! The lines range in difficulty from 5.10- to 5.13+. There are no easy warm-ups here as the easy stuff can be a bit run-out and very long and pumpy. Classics include: Wild Child (mixed, 5.11c), Blue By You (mixed, 2 pitches, 5.11a), Wild Life, and Big Red (sport, 5.11d).
I personally have seen (way too close up) a Timber Rattlesnake at the base of this crag. Beware.
Getting There
Wild River Crag is located northwest of the height of land of Evens Notch. The usual access is to drive to the end of the ( dirt) Wild River Road and take the Basin trail south from the WMNF WR Campground.
There are two ways to get to the Wild River Campground: 1) Go over Pinkham Notch on Rt16, turn right on Rt2 in Gorham, take that into Maine and turn right (south) on Rt 113. Take this a few miles to a right onto the (dirt) Wild River Road. Follow this to the campground at the end. If my memory is correct the trailhead parking is on the left just at the “ entrance” of the campground. …Or 2) From Fryeburg area take Rt 113 north up and over Evans Notch, dropping down a few miles to a left onto Wild River Road. Follow to campground. Route 1 is probably faster from North Conway, while the second route is probably faster from Maine areas.
Once parked take the Basin Trail South about 1 1/2 miles and the crag should be obvious on the right across the small stream. (See photo “ Wild River Crag from trail just above where climber’s path leaves to cross the stream” , as well as photos of the stream itself that you’ll pass before you get to this crossing.)
Alternate- It is also possible to reach WRCrag from the south by parking at WMNF Basin Pond day-use/ Campground on the south “ end” of Evans Notch and taking the Basin Trail north 2.3 miles to where it intersects the Basin Rim Trail. Stay on the Basin Trail 1/4 mile as it drops down the other side of the ridge,pass a side trail on the left going back to the ridge , and then continue down Basin Trail another 1/2 mile, with the crag now on your left. If you reach where the Basin Trail crosses the stream you’ve gone 1/4 mile too far. This approach adds about 1 1/2 miles and about 1000 vertical feet to the approach, but can be used if the WRRoad is still closed, and/or the Road over the Notch is still closed.
Classic Climbing Routes at Wild River Crag
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