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Ben on the epic on-sight attempt.
Mega Classic both for the climbing and the history. A must do in NC.
P1: climb up the low angled rock to the ledge below the pin stack. Climb past the pin stack up the dihedral past 2 bolts and then pull the roof. Traverse right to a stance. Climb easier funky rock with sparse pro, wandering right then left to the belay under the Billboard.
P2: Climb the bolted Billboard section to a crack with gear. Make sure you get some good gear here. Either finish left (5.8 PG13) or do Tim Fisher's 5.12a(5.10R) optional finish (looks GREAT).
Fire Wall. It will be obvious what you climb.
Some bolts, some pins, plenty of spice. Bring brass nuts, offsets if you got em, and microcams, in addition to a normal rack. Not many larger cams on the route. There is a bolted anchor to lower off after the dihedral on P1 (nice crag-style route), or another bolted anchor for the belay under the P2 Billboard (if you're going all the way).
Stephan LaPierre on Wild Kingdom in 1988. photo PJ
Stephan LaPierre belaying partner on Billboard pit...
|By sean barb|
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Apr 30, 2009
one of the finest routes anywhere.
|By Tim Fisher|
Jun 4, 2009
rating: 5.11+ PG13
This route should be getting done every weekend. Both pitches great.