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Wild Kingdom 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: FA: McMillan, Rotert '78. FFA: McMillan, Robinson '79
Page Views: 3,419
Submitted By: Ben Sachs on Jan 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Stephan LaPierre on Wild Kingdom in 1988. photo PJ

Description 

Mega Classic both for the climbing and the history. A must do in NC.

P1: climb up the low angled rock to the ledge below the pin stack. Climb past the pin stack up the dihedral past 2 bolts and then pull the roof. Traverse right to a stance. Climb easier funky rock with sparse pro, wandering right then left to the belay under the Billboard.
P2: Climb the bolted Billboard section to a crack with gear. Make sure you get some good gear here. Either finish left (5.8 PG13) or do Tim Fisher's 5.12a(5.10R) optional finish (looks GREAT).

Location 

Fire Wall. It will be obvious what you climb.

Protection 

Some bolts, some pins, plenty of spice. Bring brass nuts, offsets if you got em, and microcams, in addition to a normal rack. Not many larger cams on the route. There is a bolted anchor to lower off after the dihedral on P1 (nice crag-style route), or another bolted anchor for the belay under the P2 Billboard (if you're going all the way).


Photos of Wild Kingdom Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stephan LaPierre belaying partner on Billboard pit...
Stephan LaPierre belaying partner on Billboard pit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of this classic pitch.  Photo cred...
Nearing the top of this classic pitch. Photo cred...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben on the epic on-sight attempt.
Ben on the epic on-sight attempt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself and Stu on the bilboard.  Photo credit goes...
Myself and Stu on the bilboard. Photo credit goes...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me going for the onsite on beautiful pitch 2. Dave...
Me going for the onsite on beautiful pitch 2. Dave...

Comments on Wild Kingdom Add Comment
Show which comments
By sean barb
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Apr 30, 2009

one of the finest routes anywhere.
By Tim Fisher
Jun 4, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

This route should be getting done every weekend. Both pitches great.
By Crushin' Prussian
From: carrboro, nc
Nov 1, 2015

Very good and lots of fun. Eat your Wheaties before starting up this one.

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