Wild Kingdom  5.11d PG13

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  FA: McMillan, Rotert '78. FFA: McMillan, Robinson '79 Submitted By:  Ben Sachs on Jan 12, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Ben on the epic on-sight attempt.

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Mega Classic both for the climbing and the history. A must do in NC.

P1: climb up the low angled rock to the ledge below the pin stack. Climb past the pin stack up the dihedral past 2 bolts and then pull the roof. Traverse right to a stance. Climb easier funky rock with sparse pro, wandering right then left to the belay under the Billboard.
P2: Climb the bolted Billboard section to a crack with gear. Make sure you get some good gear here. Either finish left (5.8 PG13) or do Tim Fisher's 5.12a(5.10R) optional finish (looks GREAT).

Location 

Fire Wall. It will be obvious what you climb.

Protection 

Some bolts, some pins, plenty of spice. Bring brass nuts, offsets if you got em, and microcams, in addition to a normal rack. Not many larger cams on the route. There is a bolted anchor to lower off after the dihedral on P1 (nice crag-style route), or another bolted anchor for the belay under the P2 Billboard (if you're going all the way).

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Stephan LaPierre on Wild Kingdom in 1988. photo PJ

Stephan LaPierre belaying partner on Billboard pit...