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Wild Kingdom 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rob Candelaria and Greg Finnof, 1986
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,141
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 14, 2001
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  • Description 

    Wild Kingdom, like its partner "Predator" fires up the gorgeous headwell just left of Rosy Crucifixion (and to the right of Predator). Launch Wild Kingdom from the traverse on Rosy at the left facing corner just before Rosy turns from traverse to vertical. Technical and thin, the climbing on Wild Kingdom uses a host of friable flakes that are unlikely to stand the test of time. Spacey bolts with gear between makes this line a wild ride. Of the two, I thought that Predator had more fun climbing on it, and the pro seemed lots more satisfying, probably because it is not as scary as Wild Kingdom. But, don't miss Wild Kingdom if you are up here, the climbing and the exposure are superb - just hang tight between the gear. I'm not sure that any of the moves on Wild Kingdom are 5.12, however, stringing all 150 ft together feels like 5.12-, so pick a number. Predator and Wild Kingdom are two excellent climbs by one of the finest athletes that has ever graced our state. Rob Candelaria has done more to help every wanna-be athlete that has stepped up to him than any other individual I have ever known. From sloth to tiger, Rob has lent his experience, advice, wisdom, and character to every single one. As near as I can tell he has never asked for a single thing in return, just the cheapest daily fee on the planet for admission to CATS. To boot, he has maintained cutting edge climbing skill from the first day he strapped on a pair of rock shoes, and Rob is just as old as I am. Even in his late 40s (a while ago) he never demanded one bit less of himself than he did from guys half his age. An olympic gymnast, a superb and implacably bold climber, and a gentleman-athlete, Rob will always sit, in my mind, in a place where I can only dream to go.


    Protection 

    This 150 ft pitch needs 8 - 10 draws and rack with wires up to 4 or 5 and Friends up to # 3.



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    By Bob Rotert
    May 24, 2006
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

    Very complimentary write up Richard. I just did this route the other day after not having done it in a long time. I forgot how cool this route is. This is a great Eldo route! Sporty for a sport route. Actually it is not really a sport route. It is supplemented with some trad pro which makes it more interesting than clipping only bolts and the bolts are certainly not at your waist when doing the crux climbing. This makes it a climb that leaves you feeling like you really did a lead. The climb is relatively safe with a touch of hot sauce and lots of exposure.

    It is very similar, in nature, to Rosy but a full grade & maybe a couple of tics harder. The cool thing is you get to do what I think is the crux climbing on Rosy before you start up Wild Kingdom. So if you like Rosy and would like some similar, saucy, spooky, harder, climbing than Rosy do Wild Kingdom! The route does has some delicate flakes on it and you need to be careful about how much force you put on them. i.e folks "of substance" should not do this route! Not sure what I was doing up there. I don't think the route sees a lot of traffic compared to other Eldo routes.

    Just to help with a consensus for a rating for the route and I caveat that all ratings should come from multiple opinions to have a consensus rating. So this is only my opinion.

    I don't think this comes any where close to the 12a rating put on this route by the FA party... Maybe some holds broke & it's easier now?

    To try and compare it to a similar climb. I think this route is easier than its neighbor Predator which I have not done in a number of years but my recollection is that Predator was a little harder than Wild Kingdom and a little closer to what I feel would be Eldo 11+. Predator definitely felt a tic or two harder than Wild Kingdom did to me back in those days. My opinion back then was that neither of them should be given a 12a rating. I could see when I was up there the other day that one flake that was on Predator in the earlier years is now gone so not sure how hard Predator is today. Both routes could have probably changed some from the early years due to breaking rock. So after my ascent the other day I would rate Wild Kingdom mid 5.11 and for a generous letter grade Eldo 11c.