Sustained and classic climbing. Begin off the mossy ledge at the base of the Nut n' Homo crack. Angle up and right toward a bolt, placing a couple pieces of pro before you get to it. Follow the shallow crack system that climbs more like a face to the next bolt. Fire to the top of the next crack section (possibly a strenuous nut or tricam placement along the way) and place some thin pro at the top of it before heading for the last bolt and easier climbing. Build a belay for another pitch or continue up some somewhat dirty 5.9 pinches to finish at a notch to a double bolt anchor. Watch for rope drag if you choose this recommended option.
A double rope rappel gets you back to the double bolts you pass before the mossy ledge. Don't get your ropes stuck on the second rappel!
There are 3 normal ways to get to the mossy ledge:
Option 1 is considered the best climbing: Climb Instant Surreal (5.10+ R). This presents the best climbing of the 3 options, though it is probably the scariest.
Option 2 is to climb the crack/corner feature that is the start of Snap, Crackle and Pop (5.8). This is the natural line that leads directly into the roof traverse 2nd pitch and is well protected. Recommended.
Option 3 is to climb the normal start to Nut n' Homo (5.8 R). This option seems to be a bit contrived (especially to be so dangerous) as it is at times only 10 feet or so from the natural line of Snap, Crackle and Pop.
All options take you to the same arching traverse beneath the overhang. Follow the cracks left until you can step up through a notch and continue left to the ledge. Pass up some old tat that marks the start of Moosehead and Battle Creek Bulge. Also continue past the double bolt anchors and scramble to the top of the good ledge.
All sizes, from micro cams to a single number 3 might find a use somewhere on the route or the approach pitches. 3 well spaced bolts in no way make this route a sport climb. Double ropes may help rope drag if you combine the pitches.
|By gneiss pirate|
Mar 14, 2010
A wonderfully sustained and classic pitch of climbing that really stays with you.
From: Clemson, S.C.
Nov 21, 2011
Tri-cams of all sizes worked very well on this route for the belays and the occasional flared pod. A calf-shaking classic!
Dec 11, 2011
One of the best routes at the Bald. Every move is just a blast!
|By Robert Hutchins|
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Probably my favorite route at RB. Mega classic!