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 ADVANCED
Zippy Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
And Grooving Was Grooving  T 
Black Stallion, The S 
Canalizo T 
Die Young T 
Does Royalty Give Head? T 
Don't T 
Free As Can Be T 
Gargoyle T 
Hans Solo T 
J.B. Goes to J.T. TR 
Jedi Master T 
Moustache, The T 
New Hamster S 
Shongo Pavi T 
Wild Dream T 

Wild Dream 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Miguel Carmona & Alois Smrz, May 1988
Page Views: 336
Submitted By: toddgordon on Jun 18, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Kenton Card on Wild Dream

Description 

Around the corner from Hans Solo and the other east facing routes, is the north side of Zippy Rock. Hike around the right side of Zippy Rock and look back east and up high;...you will see a very steep, beautiful highly featured face. This is Wild Dream. Climb up plates until the plates run out, then up past two old bolts to the summit.

Location 

N. Face of Zippy Rock.

Protection 

A good selection of cams and stoppers. Quick Draws, and long reach and balls for the top.


Photos of Wild Dream Slideshow Add Photo
This was my sister's first day rock climbing outside!
This was my sister's first day rock climbing outsi...
Go for it!
Go for it!
The desperate top out on 1/4 inch bolts!
The desperate top out on 1/4 inch bolts!
Plugging in a nut I recommend a set of aliens for protection  Yikes!
Plugging in a nut I recommend a set of aliens fo...
Wild Dream and Black Stallion
BETA PHOTO: Wild Dream and Black Stallion

Comments on Wild Dream Add Comment
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By kentoncard
Jun 18, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I really enjoyed this lead the steep climbing on positive plates with protection between the patina felt unusual for joshua tree. And when you think the climbing is over... welcome to the desperate slab top out on 1/4'' bolts. The bolts protect the crux well, but should be replaced.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Sep 7, 2013

How do you get off this thing after topping out?