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Wild Country S 
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Wild Country 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 9 pitches, 870', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Peter Keller, Urs Odermatt 5-10
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 918
Submitted By: Ken H on Aug 28, 2011

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Look for this little white church on the descent. ...


Pitches are as follow
Pitch 1 30 m 5a Easy slab (skip bolts to link) Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 30 m 5a Easy slab to nice belay ledge Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 3 30 m 6a Move up and right on some balancy moves on a little bit of sharp rock. Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 30 m 5c Move up and left on easy slab. Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 5 30 m 5c Varied climbing up to a double bolt anchor.
Pitch 6 30 m 6a+ Move right from the anchor to some reach moves to the right and a few tough pulls on thin sharp rock. Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 7 30 m 6a Head up on more grey rock. Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 8 30 m 5b Easy climbing leads to the base of a sort of dihedral formation. Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 9 30 m 5c Climb the awesome slightly overhung rock with amazing exposure on big holds to the top. Double bolt anchor.


Located between Crystal Cave and Crescendo sectors. At about 30 minutes from the goat gate locate Crescendo and hike up to the base of the buttress coming down its left side. Hike up next to the buttress until you locate the route.

Don't forget a photo as a lot of the coast looks similar.

To descend walk off down the North side. From the top of the route walk North to a saddle above the cliff band forming the North Face. From here hike right (East) above the cliff until you locate a carined trail leading down a vegetated slope. As you descend watch for a small white church on the ridge line as you will need to follow the trail to this church. From the church a nice trail leads to the shoreline and then head right down the shoreline back to the town of Telendos.


Well protected with bolts with bolted belays

I recommend you take a few extendable draws and skip some bolts to link pitches 1&2, 3&4, 5&6, 8&9

Photos of Wild Country Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out on Wild Country.
Topping out on Wild Country.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading pitch 5 (was 3 for us linking)
Leading pitch 5 (was 3 for us linking)
Rock Climbing Photo: Views from mid way up.
Views from mid way up.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up pitch 1.
Leading up pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Wild Country.
Looking up at Wild Country.

Comments on Wild Country Add Comment
Show which comments
By Red
From: Tacoma, Toyota
Apr 30, 2015

We linked pitches like the OP did. P4(second half of p2 for us) had loads of rope drag even with many extendable draws and not clipping the mid anchor or 7 other lead bolts. All the other pitches had no noticeable rope drag.
The approach was easy to follow for us and took us exactly one hour. The descent was also easy to follow but took us about two hours of hiking. Climb took us 2hrs, 52min.

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