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Cat Wall
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Unnamed 5.11 ( 36 in 2nd Addition) 
Wild Cat 
Unsorted Routes:

Wild Cat 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 3,786
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 6, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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few years later, still a hard route!

Description 

Wild Cat is a great finger-stacking testpiece on the west end of the Cat Wall (closer to Nine Lives than Johnny Cat). Climb through a reachy start and clip a bolt that protects a face climbing move up to a pillar. Rest here and then bust it up the not-quite-straight-in off-fingers crack to a final crux: trying to clip the anchors.


Protection 

A bunch of 0.5 and 0.75 Camalots & a quickdraw.



Photos of Wild Cat Slideshow Add Photo
is that a knee bar? <br /> <br />photo by Casey Bernal
BETA PHOTO: is that a knee bar?

photo by Casey Bernal
entry moves. <br /> <br />photo by Casey Bernal
BETA PHOTO: entry moves.

photo by Casey Bernal
Out of the rattly fingers, into the stacks, totally cool!
Out of the rattly fingers, into the stacks, totall...
me actually making a few moves through the crux between hangdogging.  <br /> <br />photo by Casey Bernal
BETA PHOTO: me actually making a few moves through the crux be...
at the protection bolt. good spot for a #3 above, though not necessary, but nice if you are light on cams. <br /> <br />photo by Casey Bernal
BETA PHOTO: at the protection bolt. good spot for a #3 a...
Comments on Wild Cat Add Comment
Show which comments
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Sep 30, 2007

I thought the first 15' feet of rattly fingers off the pillar were way effin hard . once the crack went splitter, i felt it eased up. Felt a bit harder than Slice'n Dice

By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Oct 1, 2007

There used to be a block you could stand on to help get started with the rattly fingers bit. It got trundled off and made it a bit more difficult now.

By chris Kalous
Oct 31, 2007

Yeah, I have a video of Mike Brumbaugh sending the pillar last year! The next-block down could go, too. There are definitely .12- routes that are easier than this thing. It is a little heady to place gear and pull rope above the pillar/ledge, as well! Tremendous position, though.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 5, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

opening moves are fun and sporty. decent 0.4 camalot in a horizontal before the roof.

i found good finger locks for the first 10 feet off the ledge, then the business starts. yikes. i got spanked. painfully insecure stacked fingers and crappy feet get you to a jug/lieback then eventually good hand jam rest. i found a 1.5 friend protects the crux nicely. the last part is kind of an enduro test, insecure jams, but at least you have good feet.

By slim
Administrator
Oct 5, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

yeah, only one hand can really crank due to the skewed angle of the crack. the other hand is doing that obtuse finger stacking crap, which is pretty desperate, especially considering the size. i couldn't get my fingers onto my thumb to stack at all, just pure finger twisting. kind of spooky right above a ledge too.

By eric whewell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2009

This route felt harder to me than Slice N' Dice at Way Rambo and definitely harder than Johnny Cat. Pretty burly at .11+!

By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Jan 29, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

This is one of the most beautiful splitters you can find at the cat wall. I could see the splitter from the top of the trail at the cat wall from the first parking lot. This climb is freakin hard!! Right off the pillar its rattly fingers, but they are in a corner, so you have feet. Then the crux is pulling really tight ring locks with no feat. Then climb a splitter crack that is very off set to the chains. There is a good rest half way up, but after the rest the climbing does get easier. I was really excited about this route, but slim thinks it is dumb.

By slim
Administrator
Jan 30, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

what? kind of hard to compare 40 feet of semi sport climbing and about 30 feet of offset splitter to something like 9 lives, or bad cat, or johnny cat, or cat burglar, or deseret moon, or ......

By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Dec 4, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I don't know slim. Its a pretty awesome pitch.