Wild Blue Yonder  5.13a

914 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet FA:  Alan Nelson Submitted By:  Alan Nelson on Jul 9, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Private Property issues MORE INFO >>> The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited. Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite. Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

"I've got blisters on my fingers!" Wild Blue Yonder is a small holds testpiece up a very overhanging wall. The edges are positive, sharp, and very tiny. Lose 30 pounds, bring your best edging shoes, and boulder V8 if you don't want to do the long approach hike more than a few times. Unlike more accessible areas, you won't have to take a number and wait your turn to play on a classic.

Approach from the Silver Saddle (the notch about 300 feet up from the base of Ridge 1). Scramble around the corner and up a ramp to belay. Climb out right over chossy rock (5.10) to a stance above the overlap. This section of rock sucks, but the rest of the route up the overhanging wall above more than compensates for it.

Step right from the stance and start bouldering toward a scoop/dihedral above. Did I mention the holds are small? The moves and clips are sequential, technical, and elegant. The rock is bulletproof, colorful, and flawless to the anchors. Don't get suckered into the scoop - the best holds are on the outside just left.

Take the rating with a grain of salt. I don't know of anyone who has repeated the pitch, so the grade could be plus or minus three letters. I don't think it is easier than stated, but my opinion is hardly a consensus.

Protection 

Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor.