Wild Blue Yonder
|914 page views|
"I've got blisters on my fingers!" Wild Blue Yonder is a small holds testpiece up a very overhanging wall. The edges are positive, sharp, and very tiny. Lose 30 pounds, bring your best edging shoes, and boulder V8 if you don't want to do the long approach hike more than a few times. Unlike more accessible areas, you won't have to take a number and wait your turn to play on a classic.
Approach from the Silver Saddle (the notch about 300 feet up from the base of Ridge 1). Scramble around the corner and up a ramp to belay. Climb out right over chossy rock (5.10) to a stance above the overlap. This section of rock sucks, but the rest of the route up the overhanging wall above more than compensates for it.
Step right from the stance and start bouldering toward a scoop/dihedral above. Did I mention the holds are small? The moves and clips are sequential, technical, and elegant. The rock is bulletproof, colorful, and flawless to the anchors. Don't get suckered into the scoop - the best holds are on the outside just left.
Take the rating with a grain of salt. I don't know of anyone who has repeated the pitch, so the grade could be plus or minus three letters. I don't think it is easier than stated, but my opinion is hardly a consensus.
Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor.