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The main cliff is known as the "Candy Store" and has the best basalt crack climbing in the region. Trad climbing splitter cracks and corners on perfect rock. Look for anchors at the top of each 30 m pitch for easy lowering and top-roping after you lead them.
Getting to the Candy Store
Get the Taos Rock book for the best description. The Wild Rivers Recreational Area north of Questa, NM has excellent camping, spectacular views and great access to the trad climbing at Questa Dome as well as the riverside cliffs of this crag. There are also a few sport climbs up in the Red River Area.
Here are some options:Depending on the river level (about 225 CFS) you can rock hop on the rocks just North of the cliff.If it is warm bring an innertube (or anything that can hold a pack above water) and it is easy to swim across. In low water it may also be able to wade across the sand bars directly opposite of the crag. The crossing is easiest in late summer or fall when the river is less than 300 cfs.
River Flow Information: River Flow Levels -- River flow levels are unpredictable, so climbers should monitor the USGS website, or contact BLM, for current information (USGS 08263500 RIO GRANDE NEAR CERRO, NM.)
USGS Water Resource Division - New Mexico District water.usgs.gov/waterwatch/?m=real&r=nm
BLM (888)882-6188 (Recorded Message)
Day-use parking and camping fees are required for parking in BLM’s Wild Rivers and Orilla Verde Recreation Areas.
Boaters Info: www.blm.gov/nm/st/en/prog/recreation/taos/river_segments_rio>>>
Services, Gas, Beer, Food (Taquitos at the Wildcat's Den 2457 Highway 522 (575) 586-1119, mmmm) in Questa
Guide Service - Mountain Skills climbingschoolusa.com/index.html
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Kid in a Candy Store 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c NM : Taos Area : ... : The Candy Store
Start in the chossy crack system just right of the main crack system. Climb up 15 feet and place adequate gear before stepping over left into the main crack system.The rock quality improves as you climb higher. The jams are steep but bomber. Near the top of the crack you will find the crux which is well protected by gear near your feet. Stellar line! On the kid. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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