The main cliff is known as the "Candy Store" and has the best basalt crack climbing in the region. Trad climbing splitter cracks and corners on perfect rock. Look for anchors at the top of each 30 m pitch for easy lowering and top-roping after you lead them.
Getting to the Candy Store
Get the Taos Rock book for the best description. The Wild Rivers Recreational Area north of Questa, NM has excellent camping, spectacular views and great access to the trad climbing at Questa Dome as well as the riverside cliffs of this crag. There are also a few sport climbs up in the Red River Area.
Here are some options:Depending on the river level (about 225 CFS) you can rock hop on the rocks just North of the cliff.If it is warm bring an innertube (or anything that can hold a pack above water) and it is easy to swim across. In low water it may also be able to wade across the sand bars directly opposite of the crag. The crossing is easiest in late summer or fall when the river is less than 300 cfs.
River Flow Information: River Flow Levels -- River flow levels are unpredictable, so climbers should monitor the USGS website, or contact BLM, for current information (USGS 08263500 RIO GRANDE NEAR CERRO, NM.)
USGS Water Resource Division - New Mexico District water.usgs.gov/waterwatch/?m=real&r=nm
BLM (888)882-6188 (Recorded Message)
Day-use parking and camping fees are required for parking in BLM’s Wild Rivers and Orilla Verde Recreation Areas.
Boaters Info: www.blm.gov/nm/st/en/prog/recreation/taos/river_segments_rio>>>
Services, Gas, Beer, Food (Taquitos at the Wildcat's Den 2457 Highway 522 (575) 586-1119, mmmm) in Questa
Guide Service - Mountain Skills climbingschoolusa.com/index.html
Browse More Classics in Wild and Scenic
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wild and Scenic:
Featured Route For Wild and Scenic
Serendipity 5.11 NM : Taos Area : ... : The Red Tail Wall
Starts at upriver most area of Redtail Wall. Start where south facing broken face meets ground. Work your way up to hand-fist crack and follow directly to short offwidth in low angle groove. Climb corner to roof and find chain anchor up and left above featured block....[more] Browse More Classics in NM