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Wild and Scenic

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Candy Store, The 
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Wild and Scenic  


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Elevation: 6,000'
Location: 36.6982, -105.7077 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,512
Administrators: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike Howard on Nov 11, 2007
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Steve Laycock leads Kid In A Candy Store

Caution: Poison-Ivy MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The main cliff is known as the "Candy Store" and has the best basalt crack climbing in the region. Trad climbing splitter cracks and corners on perfect rock. Look for anchors at the top of each 30 m pitch for easy lowering and top-roping after you lead them.

Adventure Sport-Trad: This is no roadside sport area. Be prepared and equipped to scramble/bushwhack/wade/boulder hop/route find and get less done than expected. Head lamps are used more often than one would guess. Please use established trails (may be faint but often cairned). The hike out (~600 ft) can be the hardest part of your outing.

Getting to the Candy Store 

Get the Taos Rock book for the best description. The Wild Rivers Recreational Area north of Questa, NM has excellent camping, spectacular views and great access to the trad climbing at Questa Dome as well as the riverside cliffs of this crag. There are also a few sport climbs up in the Red River Area.

From Taos, follow NM 68 north 7 miles. Take NM 522 approximately 20 miles to Questa. Travel 3 miles past the stoplight in Questa to NM 378. Turn left onto NM 378 and follow the signs about 12 miles west to Wild Rivers Recreation Area. The Candy Store is accessed from the Bear Crossing trail. Descend this steep trail for about 10 minutes. At the river, travel north on the East side, for about 10 minutes.(watch for poison ivy!) The cliff is located on the west side of the river and crossing can be problematic.

blm.gov/nm/st/en/prog/recreati...

Arial view.
Arial view.


Here are some options:Depending on the river level (about 225 CFS) you can rock hop on the rocks just North of the cliff.If it is warm bring an innertube (or anything that can hold a pack above water) and it is easy to swim across. In low water it may also be able to wade across the sand bars directly opposite of the crag. The crossing is easiest in late summer or fall when the river is less than 300 cfs.



River Flow Information: River Flow Levels -- River flow levels are unpredictable, so climbers should monitor the USGS website, or contact BLM, for current information (USGS 08263500 RIO GRANDE NEAR CERRO, NM.)
USGS Water Resource Division - New Mexico District ater.usgs.gov/waterwatch/?m=re...
BLM (888)882-6188 (Recorded Message)

Day-use parking and camping fees are required for parking in BLM’s Wild Rivers and Orilla Verde Recreation Areas.

Boaters Info: blm.gov/nm/st/en/prog/recreati...

Services, Gas, Beer, Food (Taquitos at the Wildcat's Den 2457 Highway 522 (575) 586-1119, mmmm) in Questa

Guide Service - Mountain Skills climbingschoolusa.com/index.ht...

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.2 miles from here

15 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',8],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Wild and Scenic
FA Jay Foley, Joel Tinl belaying day 1 <br />Crack in the Cosmic Egg

Crack In The Cosmic Egg 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  NM : Taos Area : ... : Ground Up Wall
Diverse climbing on great rock. Start in a thin seem layback this past a lone bolt to a ledge then up a steep finger crack to another sloping ledge.Step left and follow steep pockets to gain a large right facing corner when it ends do an airy traverse out right on a short horizontal hand crack then up to a ledge and rap anchor. Two ropes or A single 70 meter rope will just barely get you down (stay right at end of rap). Stiff for the grade!...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Wild and Scenic Slideshow Add Photo
Jay Foley. <br /> <br /><a href='http://Andrewburr.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >andrewburr.com</a> photography <br />
Jay Foley. andrewburr.com photography
Fall colors along the Rio Grande.
Fall colors along the Rio Grande.
Best crack climbing in the county <br /> <br /><a href='http://Andrewburr.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >andrewburr.com</a>
Best crack climbing in the county andrewburr.com
Kid In A Candy Store. A Sam Lambie Photo from New Mexico Magazine article 2004
Kid In A Candy Store. A Sam Lambie Photo from New ...
Jay considering the art of cairning. <br /> <br /><a href='http://Andrewburr.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >andrewburr.com</a>
Jay considering the art of cairning. andrewburr.c...
Jay on his classic jam crack "Kid in a Candy Store" <br /> <br /><a href='http://Andrewburr.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >andrewburr.com</a>
Jay on his classic jam crack "Kid in a Candy ...
Josh on Spearhead.
Josh on Spearhead.
The view from the approach trail.
The view from the approach trail.
Herb's Lounge. <br />Photo by Josh Smith.
Herb's Lounge. Photo by Josh Smith.
Joel Tinl: the Prince of Wides. Check out the Inflatable boat moored in the background <br /> <br /><a href='http://Andrewburr.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >andrewburr.com</a>
Joel Tinl: the Prince of Wides. Check out the Infl...
Friendly berries.
Friendly berries.

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By Tradoholic
May 20, 2011
This whole wall looked stellar...too bad I couldn't get there! The best place to cross the river looked to be just slightly up stream from the wall and I could easily hop across there but keeping the pack dry would have been hard. In my attempt to prove to my partner that a dry crossing was possible I took an inadvertent dip! You should have seen the smug look on his face.