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 ADVANCED
The South Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry T,S 
Bad Boys Bolt T 
Beer for Breakfast T 
Between Nothingness and Eternity T,S 
Birdland T 
Black Market T 
Blackstreak TR 
Dirty Love T 
Fun Flake T 
Funkativity T 
Go Spuds Go T 
Good Girls Don't T 
Grey Rat Rocksicle T 
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) T,S 
Shadow Dance S 
Slab Happy S 
Sugar Mountain T 
Two Minds Meet T 
Wigs on Fire T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Wigs on Fire 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Craig Luebben and Jim Johnson
Page Views: 1,034
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 19, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Every once counts lugging your gear up here. Watc...

Description 

This route is located on the upper tier of the southeast slabs of Greyrock. This route is the first route with more than two bolts to the right of Slab Happy (5.7).

I gave this route a "s" rating, since the crux moves start before you clip the first bolt and because there is a 25-30ft runout on 5.6 rock after the last bolt. I really enjoyed this route after I was able to clip the first bolt, which is a little committing. The easy runout is not scary, and should be no problem for someone who made it through the crux.

Protection 

3 bolts, optional small gear.


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By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 21, 2002

I forgot to mention the anchor consists of a single bolt w/ chain and a slingable flake. Consider carrying some extra webbing for the flake.
By Rob C
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 15, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

If this is the route I'm thinking of, it has been completely bolted; it's not run-out any more. A good, well protected route. There are 2 anchor chains now.