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Wight Wing Wadicals
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m) |
FA: | Jay Detweiler & Gerry Brown |
Page Views: | 970 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Nov 5, 2012 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue:
Details
Sheep Mountain may have raptor closure issues. Please contact RMNP for further details.
Access Issue: Parking
Details
This area has a tiny 14 car parking area. It often fills. You can park further back from the trailhead, but the opportunities are limited and add a good bit to the approach.
Description
This is a good line with two options ~1/3 the way up that dramatically affect the difficulty level.
Start up and around to the left of Shroom Groove, Tiptoe Through The Tulips, etc. by maybe 100 feet. Start in an obvious crack (the same as Anatomically Incorrect) that goes up to a tree ~20 feet up. Continue up to a slanting ledge. Here, you have a choice. 1) Move left of the offwidth bulge onto nice knobs and edges (the same as Anatomically Incorrect). Go up perhaps 10 feet, then move right back to the crack above the bulge. 2) Take on the bulging offwidth directly, 8, with an arm bar and a reach to a good knob. You would likely want something wide for this bit, a #3.5 Camalot fits at the crux. Continue up to the top of this side of the rock.
Rappel ~90' from a sling with a link around a staub on the tree. In the future, this may get some rappel bolts.
Start up and around to the left of Shroom Groove, Tiptoe Through The Tulips, etc. by maybe 100 feet. Start in an obvious crack (the same as Anatomically Incorrect) that goes up to a tree ~20 feet up. Continue up to a slanting ledge. Here, you have a choice. 1) Move left of the offwidth bulge onto nice knobs and edges (the same as Anatomically Incorrect). Go up perhaps 10 feet, then move right back to the crack above the bulge. 2) Take on the bulging offwidth directly, 8, with an arm bar and a reach to a good knob. You would likely want something wide for this bit, a #3.5 Camalot fits at the crux. Continue up to the top of this side of the rock.
Rappel ~90' from a sling with a link around a staub on the tree. In the future, this may get some rappel bolts.
Location
This starts up and around to the left of Shroom Groove, Tiptoe Through The Tulips, etc. by maybe 100 feet at a crack with a tree ~20 feet up.
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