Wigglin' Fingies  5.12a

683 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Eli Helmuth, Chris Weidner New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Chris Weidner on May 30, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Chris Weidner on a redpoint attempt of Wigglin' Fi...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Wigglin' Fingies climbs the attractive east face of Bookmark Pinnacle via a 50-foot arching flake/crack leading to a thin, clean slab. Carefully traverse left from the base of the "Cave Route" (in the descent chimney) to the steep flake/crack on the east face. Small nuts and a small cam or two protect the awkward layback start of the route. Where the crack fades out clip a bolt, then continue up the powerful underclings with good gear, including a small fixed nut. Now, tiptoe up the delicate (i.e.: desperate!) slab passing four bolts to the two-bolt anchor on top of the face. One may want to save the #00 TCU as a final piece before the anchor. Enjoy!

Protection 

Small to medium nuts, 1 each cams #00 TCU to #0.75 Camalot. There is one fixed nut plus 5 bolts en route to a two-bolt anchor at 80 feet. The belayer may want an anchor at the precarious stance beneath the route, which requires larger cams; #2 and #3 Camalots.

Photos of Wigglin' Fingies Slideshow

Add Photo

Lynn just before flashing the crux on the 2nd onsi...