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The Prudential
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El Funko S 
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Horned Behavior S 
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 
Machine Head S 
Measured Doses S 
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Practice, The S 
Premium, The S 
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Wiggler Wants It T,TR 

Wiggler Wants It 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brady Libby 1/01
Page Views: 258
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 8, 2011

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Description 

A burly layback and kneebar section off the ground leads to a good jug and more moderate but really enjoyable climbing leads to a few moves that are shared with Premium (5.12c/d) then a ledge. On the ledge step left to an anchor.

The hard starting moves are well protected but beyond that there is a seam that looks very sketchy to fish in protection. Once you join Premium you can clip a couple bolts.

I decided I was happy just to toprope it, which I set up by climbing the first half of Premium and clipping the Wiggler anchors.

Location 

A small left facing corner just left of the big Premium corner.

Protection 

a few small cams and small nuts to a couple bolts And a two bolt anchor.
You can toprope by climbing (or cheating) up the Premium to the anchor.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 9, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R

Brady used a nest of little wires in the sketchy seam. I'm not sure they would have held a real fall, as it flexes and being soft schist and all. I opted for a TR too.