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Wiggler Wants It 

Wiggler Wants It 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, TR, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brady Libby 1/01
Page Views: 230
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 8, 2011
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A burly layback and kneebar section off the ground leads to a good jug and more moderate but really enjoyable climbing leads to a few moves that are shared with Premium (5.12c/d) then a ledge. On the ledge step left to an anchor.

The hard starting moves are well protected but beyond that there is a seam that looks very sketchy to fish in protection. Once you join Premium you can clip a couple bolts.

I decided I was happy just to toprope it, which I set up by climbing the first half of Premium and clipping the Wiggler anchors.


A small left facing corner just left of the big Premium corner.


a few small cams and small nuts to a couple bolts And a two bolt anchor.
You can toprope by climbing (or cheating) up the Premium to the anchor.

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Mar 9, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R

Brady used a nest of little wires in the sketchy seam. I'm not sure they would have held a real fall, as it flexes and being soft schist and all. I opted for a TR too.