Wiggle Room climbs the right side of the upper west face of Mary's Bust, beginning from the right side of the ledge that runs beneath Big Horn. It's just beyond vertical, and offers a number of 5.10 cruxes with varied, somewhat cryptic climbing, including a fun section of chicken wing moves.
If you get into trouble and can't climb back out, I think the best option is to lower off, and then traverse the belay ledge left to the anchor beneath Big Horn. Sacrifice a couple biners and rappel into the gully (50-60 feet); an easy bushwhack leads back to the base of the gold wall. [Disclaimer: I've not actually traversed the ledge myself -- it looks reasonable, but I'm not certain it's easy or safe.] You may also be able to aid to the top as the bolts aren't too far apart.
This route is similar to Big Horn: rappel in and climb out. Scramble up the 3rd class slabs on the back side of Mary's Bust (beginning from the pass between Mary's Bust and the gold wall), passing through a notch to reach a pine tree. Harness up here, and then work over to the edge of the cliff -- you want to be about 10 feet above another saddle in the surrounding terrain. Clip into the bolts atop the climb, and drop down to the ledge beneath them. Rappel 70 feet from here, laying your rope a few feet south of the upper bolts, to a ledge with a dead tree (single bolt belay at present).
Another option for the approach is to climb a frontside route (e.g. The Brown Palace) and add this pitch on at the end of the day.
8 bolts, with a single bolt belay at the base, and a double bolt rappel station on top.
|By Bernard Gillett|
Aug 21, 2010
You'll notice an empty bolt hole right of the single bolt belay on the ledge beneath the climb. My intention was to install a double bolt belay, but I ran out of juice. Clip the first protection bolt with a long sling as you rappel if you want to incorporate that into the belay. If I get up there with a drill again, I'll finish the job.
Also note that it may be feasible to access this pitch from the top of Richard Wright's Violet Blue, which would turn that route into a summit climb. I'll look into linking the two climbs in the coming months.