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The Castle
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5.9 crack climb T 
Betterman T 
Camel Walk, The T 
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 
Dalke - Jennings T 
Dewitt Route T 
Dungeon, The T 
Great Chimney Route T 
Guillotine T 
Hardgumbi's Lament T 
Nose, The T 
Rapunzel T 
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 
Southeast Gully T 
Throne Room T 
Uncle Wiggly T 
Wiggins Route T 
Winterlude T 
You Can't Chop This T 

Wiggins Route 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 425', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Earl Wiggins
Page Views: 635
Submitted By: Lenny Miller on Jul 23, 2012

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Brian heading into the P3 OW. The crux traverse is...

Description 

This is another stellar line at The Castle mixing crack (fingers to OW), stemming, and face climbing, leading up one of the more prominent lines on the left side of the SE buttress.

P1: Flake your rope just below the obvious, overhanging OW on the arete (The Dungeon), and head for twin cracks up a slightly overhanging bulge (crux). Continue up another corner/crack to belay atop a sloping pedestal, at the base of the splitter crack system heading straight up the face (10b, 175').

P2: Follow the beautiful (and sustained and burly!) hand crack, passing a short discontinuity where the crack fizzles out for a few feet, and top out on a big ledge (and catch your breath). Move up and right 15' to another (bigger) ledge, below the P3 OW and headwall, and belay and enjoy the view (10a, 140').

P3: Move to the right edge of the belay ledge and grunt up the OW formed by the left side of a large flake. From the top of the flake, head left across the face, passing 2 bolts (crux), and head up a lower angle (easy but not well-protected) scoop to the summit (10b, 110').

Descent:

Three raps down the gully behind the Parapet (left of the Throne Room). It is best to have a 70m rope for the first rap (although down-climbing and/or setting an intermediate rap looks possible with a 60m).

Location 

This is one of the more prominent lines on the left side of the left buttress on the SE face, just right of The Dungeon. The second pitch follows the striking splitter crack midway up the left side of the buttress, which is visible from the approach trail.

Protection 

Bring wires and cams to 4" with doubles on 1/2" to 3" cams, long slings, and an optional #2(?) BigBro for P3. Two bolts protect the crux of P3.


Photos of Wiggins Route Slideshow Add Photo
Start of P1. The Dungeon is the overhanging darkne...
BETA PHOTO: Start of P1. The Dungeon is the overhanging darkne...
Brian busting up the burly, sustained, 10a pitch 2...
Brian busting up the burly, sustained, 10a pitch 2...
The rap anchor. Note the bolt on the right has a w...
The rap anchor. Note the bolt on the right has a w...

Comments on Wiggins Route Add Comment
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By Lenny Miller
Jul 23, 2012

Climbed this yesterday. This route has the potential to be one of the classics at the area, with a prominent line, and excellent varied climbing. However, a few issues cut it back a notch in my book.

1 - The two bolts protecting the P3 crux look like modern placements, except instead of modern hangers, there are wired stoppers (#3 size?) cinched under a nut and washer. And the wires are looking somewhat oxidized. On top of that, unless you brought a BigBro to protect the OW below, you're looking at a 40ft ledge fall if they fail.

2 - There are two loose boulders about a third of the way up P1 that moved on me as I was leading it. They probably weigh a couple hundred pounds. I'm not sure if they are about to change their earthly position or not - and I wasn't about to test them, with my partner below me. It's possible to stay left and not touch them. However, if you're feeling ambitious, maybe the second could trundle these (don't leave any gear at the base!)

3 - The rap anchor consists of 1 modern bolt w/hanger, 1 modern bolt with washer and wire hanger WITHOUT THE NUT, 1 ancient button head, and 1 ancient 1/4" bolt.

If you're heading up to do this route, please consider bringing 3 hangers (3/8"?), 1 nut, and a wrench.
By slim
Administrator
Jul 24, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Glad somebody finally posted this route - I have been meaning to for probably 6 years or so, but for some reason I never got around to it. It's a fun route that should see more traffic.

The long flare pitch is burly for the grade. The bolts at the top were scary. The leg loop of my harness broke about 10 feet into the free hanging rappel. Good times!