|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 425', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]|
|Submitted By:||Lenny Miller on Jul 23, 2012|
|Comments on Wiggins Route||Add Comment|
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By Lenny Miller
Jul 23, 2012
Climbed this yesterday. This route has the potential to be one of the classics at the area, with a prominent line, and excellent varied climbing. However, a few issues cut it back a notch in my book.
1 - The two bolts protecting the P3 crux look like modern placements, except instead of modern hangers, there are wired stoppers (#3 size?) cinched under a nut and washer. And the wires are looking somewhat oxidized. On top of that, unless you brought a BigBro to protect the OW below, you're looking at a 40ft ledge fall if they fail.
2 - There are two loose boulders about a third of the way up P1 that moved on me as I was leading it. They probably weigh a couple hundred pounds. I'm not sure if they are about to change their earthly position or not - and I wasn't about to test them, with my partner below me. It's possible to stay left and not touch them. However, if you're feeling ambitious, maybe the second could trundle these (don't leave any gear at the base!)
3 - The rap anchor consists of 1 modern bolt w/hanger, 1 modern bolt with washer and wire hanger WITHOUT THE NUT, 1 ancient button head, and 1 ancient 1/4" bolt.
If you're heading up to do this route, please consider bringing 3 hangers (3/8"?), 1 nut, and a wrench.
Jul 24, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Glad somebody finally posted this route - I have been meaning to for probably 6 years or so, but for some reason I never got around to it. It's a fun route that should see more traffic.
The long flare pitch is burly for the grade. The bolts at the top were scary. The leg loop of my harness broke about 10 feet into the free hanging rappel. Good times!