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Cliffs of Insanity
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Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 
Unknown 10+ T 
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 
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Vinciny T 
Wiggins I T 
Wiggins II T 
Unsorted Routes:

Wiggins I 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Earl Wiggins
Page Views: 6,030
Submitted By: Josh Janes on May 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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jake going up ..

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is an awesome, awesome, awesome splitter fist crack. Even if you don't like fist cracks, do this climb. It is really good!


1 each #1 and #2 Camalots. 3 #3 Camalots. 8 pieces in the #3.5 (old style Camalot) to #4 (old style Camalot) range (what I'm trying to say is that it goes from average fists to pretty big fists, and while 8 #4 C4's would work, it's nice to have some slightly different sized pieces). A 70m rope gets down... a 60 might?

Photos of Wiggins I Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Right before the hail set in.
Right before the hail set in.
Rock Climbing Photo: hi on the route
hi on the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam making it look fun.
Adam making it look fun.
Rock Climbing Photo: 08

Comments on Wiggins I Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
May 1, 2009

Trust me, "you'll get great fist jams" he says.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2010

That is, unless they don't fit and then you'll love having your elbow in there
By J. Hickok
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

The "fists" section disappeared pretty quickly for me. Hand-size dependent as far as that goes.
By chris Kalous
Apr 9, 2012

Pretty rough 11-.
By Martin Harris
Nov 4, 2013

Fist was to small, elbow to big and hand stacks to strenuous. Hardest 11- I have ever touched

But what a line
By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 5, 2013

The highlight of my latest Creek trip and the climb that stands out above the rest for pure quality desert climbing. Grade wise not the biggest tick you will get but aesthetically it doesn't get any better, just look at the setting. Big hands would make this climb almost easy but just think how hard all those tight hand cracks would be.
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Dec 27, 2013

60m worked for me

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