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Lacey Lou about to tackle the crux layback
Fritz Wiessner had a good eye for the classic climbs. The start of this climb can be found by heading straight up from the intersection of the main (Tower) trail and the white trail. After hiking up to the base of the rib, walk right and up to a ledge at the base of the route; step left to belay away from the poison ivy. On the left side of the ledge is a dihedral system. Follow this up about 25 feet to a ledge. Step right across a small slab and climb easily to an obvious dihedral. Layback past a blank spot (crux) and either climb a short slanting crack on the left or climb more easily on the right to a big ledge. 65', 5.6. This ledge can also be reached easily from the left.
Directly above an ancient bolt is easy to see. This is "Bolted", an alternate finish at 5.8+. The second pitch works right (ignoring the bolt) and then follows a left facing dihedral. At an old pin (now useless), a long step left avoids a hard spot. Easier climbing leads to the top. 40'. 5.5 (harder if shorter).
One of the best 5.6 routes in Connecticut.
This route is well protected with wires and a few larger cams.
BETA PHOTO: Wiessner's Rib
The start to Wiessner's Rib
Looking back at the belay ledge after the first fe...
From: The land of steady habits
Jun 18, 2008
sweet climb considering the choss factor of most of the cliff. safe lead.
By apeman e
Mar 14, 2010
Shockingly solid for how crappy the rest of the cliff looks. The crux slab dihedral is well protected and very fun, although unfortunately it's over before you know it.
Climbed it right before Christmas this year- it's nice to not have to wade through all the poison ivy to get to the start!
From: Wallingford, CT
Sep 6, 2013
Safe to lead for sure. Solid rock all around. One of the sweetest tasting 5.6's you'll find in CT.