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Wiessner's Rib 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  , 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Wiessner, 1930s
Page Views: 4,467
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Wiessner's Rib

Description 

Fritz Wiessner had a good eye for the classic climbs. The start of this climb can be found by heading straight up from the intersection of the main (Tower) trail and the white trail. After hiking up to the base of the rib, walk right and up to a ledge at the base of the route; step left to belay away from the poison ivy. On the left side of the ledge is a dihedral system. Follow this up about 25 feet to a ledge. Step right across a small slab and climb easily to an obvious dihedral. Layback past a blank spot (crux) and either climb a short slanting crack on the left or climb more easily on the right to a big ledge. 65', 5.6. This ledge can also be reached easily from the left.

Directly above an ancient bolt is easy to see. This is "Bolted", an alternate finish at 5.8+. The second pitch works right (ignoring the bolt) and then follows a left facing dihedral. At an old pin (now useless), a long step left avoids a hard spot. Easier climbing leads to the top. 40'. 5.5 (harder if shorter).

One of the best 5.6 routes in Connecticut.

Protection 

This route is well protected with wires and a few larger cams.


Photos of Wiessner's Rib Slideshow Add Photo
Some of the "fixed" protection on this r...
Some of the "fixed" protection on this r...
The start to Wiessner's Rib
The start to Wiessner's Rib
Looking back at the belay ledge after the first fe...
Looking back at the belay ledge after the first fe...
Lacey Lou about to tackle the crux layback
Lacey Lou about to tackle the crux layback
Looks like some people still use some of these old...
Looks like some people still use some of these old...

Comments on Wiessner's Rib Add Comment
Show which comments
By T Roper
From: VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Jun 18, 2008

sweet climb considering the choss factor of most of the cliff. safe lead.
By apeman e
Mar 14, 2010

Shockingly solid for how crappy the rest of the cliff looks. The crux slab dihedral is well protected and very fun, although unfortunately it's over before you know it.

Climbed it right before Christmas this year- it's nice to not have to wade through all the poison ivy to get to the start!
By CTdave
From: in transit
Sep 6, 2013

Safe to lead for sure. Solid rock all around. One of the sweetest tasting 5.6's you'll find in CT.
By Alex Ch
From: Fairfield, CT
Apr 13, 2015

about as good as it gets for 5.6 in CT. There's a dead bird at the beginning of pitch 2. Sadness.
By czd
May 13, 2015

Bolted is at least R rated. The bolt is terrible and the gear afterwards is so-so.
By Alex Ch
From: Fairfield, CT
Aug 1, 2015

FYI - 60 gets you down to belay ledge with UNTIED knots. Buyer beware...
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